Forgot to mention we went to The Blue Planet, which l first thought when Gitte mentioned it, that it was some sort of night club, but in fact it is the recently opened aquarium in Copenhagen. A brand new architectural "look at me building" that did not work. The aquarium is settled alongside the sea in a semi industrial area, and only opened two months ago. there are some teasing problems, some of the animals have not arrived, and the seal enclosure is closed, its hard to get your way around, and there don't seem to be any staff. Compared to the one Hunter and l went to in Lisbon, it is nothing, but that one to me would be a world class one. Still the boys enjoyed looking at the stingrays and sharks, and the odd groper. One interesting site was a man in a wetsuit walking up to the dining area from outside with a speargun and a large fish on it. At first l thought , ohh how clever and interesting way to show the customers the fish is fresh. But no he just went in to get a carton of milk, and then slowly walked through the museum, stopping to ask questions every 5 meters, thankfully it was a large carton of milk. I then thought ohh no this is a clever thing the museum does to create interest in the museum, but no l think it was a solo show, and the fish is for feeding to the sharks!
Hunter commented when we were training through Sweden that all the houses looked like pictures kids do! Which l thought was right on the money. He then later said while in Copenhagen that a-lot of the people looked weird, as we saw lots of punks, drunks, Goth's and modern day creatures.
A trip to Christiania , an area that was once a military base, and was evacuated in the seventies. Soon after people began moving in to some of the buildings and living there, and for many many years the water and electricity was supplied for free. After awhile people then began building their own original style of housing, obviously without building codes. And there is a famous alley, known as hash alley, that vendors set up small tables with hash, dope etc, under umbrellas, and sell it , in full view of passing police meter's away. But there l believe was a sensible decision to leave them alone, better to know where they are! And so anyone can go in, and buy hash etc, but there are no hard drugs, it is something even the people of Christiania want to stop. There is a sort of community council that runs the place, and you cant just go in and build now, you need to get permission, and you also pay rent and utilities. The area has a central park and walk area, and anybody can enter, though it is forbidden to take photos in hash alley. They have their own used hardware store, supermarket, more bio and natural than most, bars, cafes, etc. There is a famous Christiania bike that is higher than most and is very expensive, which is interesting as everyone seems to have one there. Apparently there are people who have been living there for 20,30 years who work in the city in offices, but just like the lifestyle of Christiania.
When we took the boys there, especially down hash alley, they became very anxious about the shady characters. Ewan was very upset, as he said , but dad they are breaking the law, and drugs are bad why don't they get arrested and go to jail? Hard to answer that, but l explained it was better to keep them in one place, and these drugs where not the worst kind.
Thankfully we found a playground with a flying fox, and all was forgotten.
This place is a large tourist attraction, more for the student groups, but still it is important, and though many governments say they are going to clean it up, they all in the end realize its best to leave it, and let it grow the way it has. It is an interesting experiment in how governments have let people do what they want , and they have set up a village style community that works, and makes money. Of course the land they live on is nearly in the center of Copenhagen, and so is very valuable, especially when you see some houses looking out over the lake.
Now we did not visit the little mermaid, or walk along the canals, visit Mary in the castle, or climb the round tower, but the boys loved it so much and are desperate to return it is good we have left something else besides a revisit to Tivoli for next time. And though their transport system is very good, they have just started building a metro line around the center that will be finished in 8 years, which will dramatically improve the transport. That said you could imagine it becoming a car-less city then, as most Danes ride bikes, it is a great site, helmets are not compulsory, and there is racks everywhere. They have great bike locks on the back wheel, that should be on every bike all over the world, though in Italy they just steal the whole bike. You can hire bikes, as in Melbourne, but no helmet is required, which makes sense as most people are tourists, and it seems to me that tourists don't carry bike helmets. The other positive thing is all the Danes look great, long legs, blond hair, olive skin, it has to have something to do with riding a bike. You can see the viking in them, nothing better than a six foot stunning blonde girl riding by on a bike and smiling at you. I love the place!!!
The Dowds in Bologna

A time past in Arezzo
The 8 Gang
Family at San Cesario de Lecce
venerdì 16 agosto 2013
mercoledì 14 agosto 2013
Summer holidays, Sweden, Copenhagen
The boys and l flew up to Copenhagen, then caught a train to Karlskroner in Sweden, to spend a few days with our friend Gitte at her holiday mill in early August. Jayne had to go back to Australia, as her sister was ill, and also to see her aging parents.
So the trip started well, there was no issue with the larger than normal carry on luggage, they take it from you as you board the SAS flight, as the plane is small and it all goes into a special locker. The service was lovely, in fact all service in Scandinavia is lovely. We arrived, the airport at Copenhagen is excellent, and you can easily get on the connecting trains to central, but in our case we were going across the large bridge that connects it to Sweden. the train trip started well, you get free wifi on the train, which is something that should happen on every train in the world. But shortly after leaving we were told we would have to get off soon, and catch a bus for one stop, as there was some work on the track, .We would then resume our travels on another train. So we did this, got on the next train and plugged our phone and ishuffle into the charge outlets near our seats ( something else all trains should have) and travelled on. Well then the train slowed down, stopped , took of, slowed down, took off, etc etc. Then we were told to move to the front carriages of the train, as it was going to split. We did this, but the shuffling along continued, meanwhile l am texting, emailing Gitte and telling her which stations we are passing. The three hour trip took 5 hours in total. The reason being apparently was an incident with a bird, and the week before Gitte's friend was delayed with a incident with a cow. And just to add to this, a week later when we were traveling to a museum (Louisiana) north of Copenhagen, the train was delayed again, because of an incident with a person!!
So we arrived finally, after catching the last few stops on a bus, in all the hustle and bustle, sadly l left my ishuffle and charger in the train, and after living in Italy for so long you become used to the fact that it would be stolen straight away. I was told later, not in Scandinavia, they are honest there, and someone most likely turned it in. So if you are even around Karlskroner, go into the train office as ask if they have a red ishuffle and charger!
Well the old mill where Gitte has her holiday house, was absolutely terrific, the boys had the best time ever. Thankfully Jayne did not come, as it is rather rough living, and in the middle of restoration, so there are health hazards everywhere, but somehow the boys realized that it was not a good idea to fall over the edge of the building where there was no wall or fencing. The toilet is a wooden lean-too, with a hole in a piece of wood, that drops down over some rocks with gaps in. The kitchen is simple by any stretch of the imagination, but somehow Gitte was able to prepare amazing meals for us.
The boys spent most of the time, fishing in the river, crossing the river to the forrest on the other side, building a motorbike out of wood, burning of scrap wood on a campfire, that we used to cook on, and collecting worms to fish with.
I did not really pack accordingly, but we survived, and we left Bologna in 38 degrees, to a 23 degree Sweden, with rain. We bathed in the near by lake every day, as there was no shower, the lake is like a picture from a book. It also had a toilet, but we never took advantage of it.
Gitte had built an art project in the near by town, which is like Longwood, in fact it makes out old town look big, as there was no pub or general shop, just a hardware store, that really was not a hardware store. But there was a bus stop, and this is where Gitte had produced a herb garden with editable biological plants, and a wooden structure that looked a bit like a small house that could be carried away, it was infact an open structure that you could prepare food on, and cook on, as it had a gas bottle and cooker attached, and a sink with water container above. So we went down and picked from the garden all sorts of lettuce, flowers and herbs and made vietnamese rolls with rice wrap. Cooked some meat on the cooker and washed up in the sink, while waiting for a bus that comes twice a day!!
This project works very well in showing people what they can grow and eat for themselves, as well as bringing the community together, of course ideas like this seem foreign to most people, as they think its easier to drive to the supermarket and spend money, and create pollution, brava Gitte!!
Sweden is a beautiful place, especially where we were, it was a picture everywhere. Everyone was friendly, thought there is a feeling of american style industrial shopping areas popping up. And the trains seems to attract animals to commit suicide!
After a few days we left back to Copenhagen by train rather nervously, but it went without a hitch, except that at Karlskroner we were told to catch a bus a few stops to get the train. The driver told us he was going to try to get there in time, otherwise he would drive us an hour further to get it there. Meanwhile he chatted away to some people, and then when he drove, held his hand over his eyes, as he could not see well into the bright sun. For some reason he had no sunglasses, or visor. So we arrived in Copenhagen that early evening, and checked into the Ascot Hotel , near Trivoli. The hotel was fine, its expensive, but so is Denmark, the position was great, and the apartment was large and on the 6th floor. The breakfast was good, and you had free wifi everywhere.
The next day we got to the entrance of Tivoli at 10.30, opening time is 11am, and were one of the first in. We went on rides all day, played games, dodgem cars, lunch, saw music, a pantomime. Hunter is by far the bravest, and continually made me go on rides that my mind said don't, Ewan did not go on many of these. Finally Hunter wanted to go on the Demon, a red wriggling, turning rotating high track that went ridiculously fast. He went by himself, and had a great time, making friends with the three kids who sat with him. As the day went on, Ewan got braver, finally going on a ride with Hunty and me that tips you upside down, 20 meters above the ground then drops and turns you around while spinning in circles. One ride we went on about 20 times, you buy an all day unlimited ticket, which is well worth it, and a must.
The boys won lots of points on the games, like basket ball, hitting a gofer, knocking down tins, etc, and ended up using them to get two stuffed animals and a pack of playing cards. We ended up going for dinner at Peder Oxe, which is a restaurant l went to over 20 years ago, and loved it, and its still going strong. You have lamps above your tables which have a switch on that you turn on when you want service, the salad bar is superb, and the food perfect. After dinner we went back to the Tivoli, until closing at 11pm, in the end we spent 9 hours at Tivoli, and were exhausted, but happy.
The following day we spent walking around, looking at the lego shop, and all other kids shops, with me trying to show them the sites, the weather was cool and rainy but we did not get that wet as we spent alot of time in shops.
That night we had dinner with Gitte at Madklubben which was also great, packed on a monday night, seating about 200 people or more. The food in Copenhagen is excellent, and it makes you realize how much you miss out of in Italy, though it is always good in Italy, it is only Italian. And the service in the shops and cafes and on the street is remarkable, l cant say enough about the service in Copenhagen. You can see why it is a growing city, and why you would want to live there, it is just expensive. But compared to Melbourne, it is better for my mind, much more artistic, restaurants are similar l suppose, but the service is excellent as l say in Denmark, and the ocean bay is a bit more than Port Philip. They also speak english very well, which is not the same in melbourne!
The next day we caught a train to Louisiana, one of the best art museums in the world, it lies about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. It has a huge collection of Giacometti works, and an impressive sculpture garden, as well as a collection of American 50's,60's artists, and Danish artists. It looks out over to Sweden which l think is cool, and is a relaxing place to spend the day, children up to 18 are free, well done!
That night we had dinner at Gitte's house, which is much more glamourous than the mill in living standards. We had dinner with David a friend from London, who the boys loved and as terrific fun, and Louisa who is a near by neighbor who l had met, 20 years earlier. Again a great meal, and strangely a train trip back to the hotel without any occurrence.
The next morning we left early and got back to thankfully a cool Bologna, and l must say better coffee, and ice cream. I must say, though Jayne was not with us this was one of the best trips we have had, the boys really enjoyed getting back to nature in Sweden, and the Tivoli is just what they needed on their holiday, and for me catching up with my old friend Gitte and visiting Louisiana and Peder Oxe again was terrific.
So the trip started well, there was no issue with the larger than normal carry on luggage, they take it from you as you board the SAS flight, as the plane is small and it all goes into a special locker. The service was lovely, in fact all service in Scandinavia is lovely. We arrived, the airport at Copenhagen is excellent, and you can easily get on the connecting trains to central, but in our case we were going across the large bridge that connects it to Sweden. the train trip started well, you get free wifi on the train, which is something that should happen on every train in the world. But shortly after leaving we were told we would have to get off soon, and catch a bus for one stop, as there was some work on the track, .We would then resume our travels on another train. So we did this, got on the next train and plugged our phone and ishuffle into the charge outlets near our seats ( something else all trains should have) and travelled on. Well then the train slowed down, stopped , took of, slowed down, took off, etc etc. Then we were told to move to the front carriages of the train, as it was going to split. We did this, but the shuffling along continued, meanwhile l am texting, emailing Gitte and telling her which stations we are passing. The three hour trip took 5 hours in total. The reason being apparently was an incident with a bird, and the week before Gitte's friend was delayed with a incident with a cow. And just to add to this, a week later when we were traveling to a museum (Louisiana) north of Copenhagen, the train was delayed again, because of an incident with a person!!
So we arrived finally, after catching the last few stops on a bus, in all the hustle and bustle, sadly l left my ishuffle and charger in the train, and after living in Italy for so long you become used to the fact that it would be stolen straight away. I was told later, not in Scandinavia, they are honest there, and someone most likely turned it in. So if you are even around Karlskroner, go into the train office as ask if they have a red ishuffle and charger!
Well the old mill where Gitte has her holiday house, was absolutely terrific, the boys had the best time ever. Thankfully Jayne did not come, as it is rather rough living, and in the middle of restoration, so there are health hazards everywhere, but somehow the boys realized that it was not a good idea to fall over the edge of the building where there was no wall or fencing. The toilet is a wooden lean-too, with a hole in a piece of wood, that drops down over some rocks with gaps in. The kitchen is simple by any stretch of the imagination, but somehow Gitte was able to prepare amazing meals for us.
The boys spent most of the time, fishing in the river, crossing the river to the forrest on the other side, building a motorbike out of wood, burning of scrap wood on a campfire, that we used to cook on, and collecting worms to fish with.
I did not really pack accordingly, but we survived, and we left Bologna in 38 degrees, to a 23 degree Sweden, with rain. We bathed in the near by lake every day, as there was no shower, the lake is like a picture from a book. It also had a toilet, but we never took advantage of it.
Gitte had built an art project in the near by town, which is like Longwood, in fact it makes out old town look big, as there was no pub or general shop, just a hardware store, that really was not a hardware store. But there was a bus stop, and this is where Gitte had produced a herb garden with editable biological plants, and a wooden structure that looked a bit like a small house that could be carried away, it was infact an open structure that you could prepare food on, and cook on, as it had a gas bottle and cooker attached, and a sink with water container above. So we went down and picked from the garden all sorts of lettuce, flowers and herbs and made vietnamese rolls with rice wrap. Cooked some meat on the cooker and washed up in the sink, while waiting for a bus that comes twice a day!!
This project works very well in showing people what they can grow and eat for themselves, as well as bringing the community together, of course ideas like this seem foreign to most people, as they think its easier to drive to the supermarket and spend money, and create pollution, brava Gitte!!
Sweden is a beautiful place, especially where we were, it was a picture everywhere. Everyone was friendly, thought there is a feeling of american style industrial shopping areas popping up. And the trains seems to attract animals to commit suicide!
After a few days we left back to Copenhagen by train rather nervously, but it went without a hitch, except that at Karlskroner we were told to catch a bus a few stops to get the train. The driver told us he was going to try to get there in time, otherwise he would drive us an hour further to get it there. Meanwhile he chatted away to some people, and then when he drove, held his hand over his eyes, as he could not see well into the bright sun. For some reason he had no sunglasses, or visor. So we arrived in Copenhagen that early evening, and checked into the Ascot Hotel , near Trivoli. The hotel was fine, its expensive, but so is Denmark, the position was great, and the apartment was large and on the 6th floor. The breakfast was good, and you had free wifi everywhere.
The next day we got to the entrance of Tivoli at 10.30, opening time is 11am, and were one of the first in. We went on rides all day, played games, dodgem cars, lunch, saw music, a pantomime. Hunter is by far the bravest, and continually made me go on rides that my mind said don't, Ewan did not go on many of these. Finally Hunter wanted to go on the Demon, a red wriggling, turning rotating high track that went ridiculously fast. He went by himself, and had a great time, making friends with the three kids who sat with him. As the day went on, Ewan got braver, finally going on a ride with Hunty and me that tips you upside down, 20 meters above the ground then drops and turns you around while spinning in circles. One ride we went on about 20 times, you buy an all day unlimited ticket, which is well worth it, and a must.
The boys won lots of points on the games, like basket ball, hitting a gofer, knocking down tins, etc, and ended up using them to get two stuffed animals and a pack of playing cards. We ended up going for dinner at Peder Oxe, which is a restaurant l went to over 20 years ago, and loved it, and its still going strong. You have lamps above your tables which have a switch on that you turn on when you want service, the salad bar is superb, and the food perfect. After dinner we went back to the Tivoli, until closing at 11pm, in the end we spent 9 hours at Tivoli, and were exhausted, but happy.
The following day we spent walking around, looking at the lego shop, and all other kids shops, with me trying to show them the sites, the weather was cool and rainy but we did not get that wet as we spent alot of time in shops.
That night we had dinner with Gitte at Madklubben which was also great, packed on a monday night, seating about 200 people or more. The food in Copenhagen is excellent, and it makes you realize how much you miss out of in Italy, though it is always good in Italy, it is only Italian. And the service in the shops and cafes and on the street is remarkable, l cant say enough about the service in Copenhagen. You can see why it is a growing city, and why you would want to live there, it is just expensive. But compared to Melbourne, it is better for my mind, much more artistic, restaurants are similar l suppose, but the service is excellent as l say in Denmark, and the ocean bay is a bit more than Port Philip. They also speak english very well, which is not the same in melbourne!
The next day we caught a train to Louisiana, one of the best art museums in the world, it lies about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. It has a huge collection of Giacometti works, and an impressive sculpture garden, as well as a collection of American 50's,60's artists, and Danish artists. It looks out over to Sweden which l think is cool, and is a relaxing place to spend the day, children up to 18 are free, well done!
That night we had dinner at Gitte's house, which is much more glamourous than the mill in living standards. We had dinner with David a friend from London, who the boys loved and as terrific fun, and Louisa who is a near by neighbor who l had met, 20 years earlier. Again a great meal, and strangely a train trip back to the hotel without any occurrence.
The next morning we left early and got back to thankfully a cool Bologna, and l must say better coffee, and ice cream. I must say, though Jayne was not with us this was one of the best trips we have had, the boys really enjoyed getting back to nature in Sweden, and the Tivoli is just what they needed on their holiday, and for me catching up with my old friend Gitte and visiting Louisiana and Peder Oxe again was terrific.
Venice, print studio
Back in July l spent 10 days working at Scuola Grafica in Venice, a print studio, run by Lorenzo and family. It was a great experience, the studio is a 10 minutes walk from the train station, and they supply accommodation over near Campo Santo Stefano, near Academia vaparetto.
I went there to do an edition series of woodcuts l had cut in Bologna in the last 9 months. One work is 52 individual plates, and there was another 15 plates. So l spent a hot week printing like mad. After organizing to have a particular paper and ink ready for me there, l found out they had not arrived. I ended up getting good paper, but l had to scrounge around for various inks that were not exactly what l wanted. The first was rather dry and flat, and this actually worked quite well, though it dried very fast, too fast sometimes.
Finally after a few days my inks arrived and l was able to work in a happier moment. In the end l printed about 350 sheets, but found some small time to visit the exhibitions that were on during the biennale. The accommodation was rather rough, but it suited me fine, l slept in an apartment with 3 other artists ( l use the word loosely) two from Ireland, one taught art, but did not seem interested in doing it in the first few days, the other was a excellent viola player!, the third was an australian girl who had no desire to do art, but l think found a way to get cheap accommodation) Anyway they were all very nice and the apartment had a shared kitchen and two bathrooms, that one did not seem to have hot water, mind you you did not need it, and the other flooded when you had a shower, leaving the hand towel that was the bath mat soaked continuously.
Often l'd get back from the studio around 7-8pm and sit out the front of the apartment in the campo (square) and have a beer. One evening a bloke comes up to me wanting directions, he is Australian , so l try to pretend that l can speak english and give him directions, until falling apart and confessing, i'm australian, but l do have an idea where he wants to go.
The studio has a great gallery, and so l was able to hang the work of 52 pieces up and get a chance to see it in its fullness, as it goes to an exhibition in Wangaratta in October.
Using the studio when l did, Lorenzo told me was a disappointing time, as all the artists attending where really sunday artists, but early next year Jon Cattapan is working there, and he told me that more serious artists usually attend.
Either way , l will return again, as the studio works for me and it is a great opportunity to work and live in Venice for a week. You get to see another side when you can spend that amount of time. Jayne and the boys came up for a weekend, and we had some great walking trips into parts of Venice that don't get the tourists, it can be so quite and peaceful, which is the opposite to San Marco's square.
I went there to do an edition series of woodcuts l had cut in Bologna in the last 9 months. One work is 52 individual plates, and there was another 15 plates. So l spent a hot week printing like mad. After organizing to have a particular paper and ink ready for me there, l found out they had not arrived. I ended up getting good paper, but l had to scrounge around for various inks that were not exactly what l wanted. The first was rather dry and flat, and this actually worked quite well, though it dried very fast, too fast sometimes.
Finally after a few days my inks arrived and l was able to work in a happier moment. In the end l printed about 350 sheets, but found some small time to visit the exhibitions that were on during the biennale. The accommodation was rather rough, but it suited me fine, l slept in an apartment with 3 other artists ( l use the word loosely) two from Ireland, one taught art, but did not seem interested in doing it in the first few days, the other was a excellent viola player!, the third was an australian girl who had no desire to do art, but l think found a way to get cheap accommodation) Anyway they were all very nice and the apartment had a shared kitchen and two bathrooms, that one did not seem to have hot water, mind you you did not need it, and the other flooded when you had a shower, leaving the hand towel that was the bath mat soaked continuously.
Often l'd get back from the studio around 7-8pm and sit out the front of the apartment in the campo (square) and have a beer. One evening a bloke comes up to me wanting directions, he is Australian , so l try to pretend that l can speak english and give him directions, until falling apart and confessing, i'm australian, but l do have an idea where he wants to go.
The studio has a great gallery, and so l was able to hang the work of 52 pieces up and get a chance to see it in its fullness, as it goes to an exhibition in Wangaratta in October.
Using the studio when l did, Lorenzo told me was a disappointing time, as all the artists attending where really sunday artists, but early next year Jon Cattapan is working there, and he told me that more serious artists usually attend.
Either way , l will return again, as the studio works for me and it is a great opportunity to work and live in Venice for a week. You get to see another side when you can spend that amount of time. Jayne and the boys came up for a weekend, and we had some great walking trips into parts of Venice that don't get the tourists, it can be so quite and peaceful, which is the opposite to San Marco's square.
Lunchtime at Scuola Grafica, Venice
martedì 2 luglio 2013
End of school 2013, summer holidays begin. Siracusa, Sicily
So its summer holidays, and everyone you see says 'Buon Estate' , l think they know that it is a long, long time, and when you have kids it is even longer. Thankfully Italy has many camps, and the boys had a soccer camp straight away, 6 days in Sardegna, and then this week they have a tennis camp, and the following week either soccer or tennis, see which they prefer.
Firstly the year ended, and they had a presentation, which included a short speech by all the year 5 kids who will go into middle school next year, and so that is the boys class. Obviously l gave them plenty of advice, and hilarious jokes to work on, somehow they were suspicious of me. in their year Hunters best friend Samuele is leaving to live in Malta, where the taxs are much lower, and Ewans best friend Luca is also leaving to go to an Italian school.
The speeches started with the 6 girls and they all did a good job, then Samuele got up and in the end broke into tears, Hunter was next and sprung into a rehearsed opening line, only to forget it half way through, not daunted he tried again, still forgot the second half, and without fear tried again, thankfully the teacher who noticed Samuele was still crying told Hunter to wait a second, which gave Hunty enough time to collect himself. He then spoke wonderfully with a great deal of enthusiasm and kindness, finally getting to Samuele he also broke down, next was Gianandrea he broke down, Matteo was next and he got through, then Ewan who spoke also with kindness and thanked his art teacher , who said later it was the first time anyone had, shameful!!! he finished with a good anecdote and a humorous line from the Truman show. Then was Michelangelo he broke down, after suffering a severe breathing episode, and finally Luca who l would have thought would have got through, but no he broke down.
So the boys proved that they are an emotional caring group and the girls a heartless lot!
So next year (september) the boys can take their own lunch to school ( l don't have to bring it to them, as we don't really like the Mensa ) And they wear a shocking maroon colour top, which at least won't show the dirt like the white one they have had.
So they went to Sardegna, had a great time, spoke lots of Italian, and got to know the other kids a lot better, which should help on the pitch! Of course there will always be this complete non sportsmanship attitude you get from a lot of the kids, who for some reason think they are Messi. To get there they had to catch a bus for 3 hours then a ferry for 8, l don't know why they did not fly, as it would have been cheaper as well.
So Jayne and l took the opportunity to go to Sicily, in particular Siracusa and more importantly Ortigia which is the old part and lies on a island connected by three bridges. We had a great hotel on the seaside, the bathroom had mould but hell what do you expect for 112 euro a night ( including a full style breakfast and real coffee) and lets not forget the relaxation area, which was an indoor pool, sauna, steam room and gym, all of which l used. A sun deck and a terrific roof top bar over looking the area.
We went down with Leslie our American friend who has lived here for 20 years, and has a good friend who is a realtor there. Siracusa or more like Ortigia is well worth seeing, it has a Caravaggio, and is steeped in ancient history, back to the Greeks. The streets are very baroque looking, though are older in many parts, and it is surrounded in water and history, In Siracusa is the Greek teatro and a Roman teatro, a brilliant archeological museum, and an incredible, in fact two old quarries where they got the limestone to build everything from, and over time have become gardens of beauty, as well as huge cave areas.
The coffee is good, maybe Napoli is better, the food obviously seafood, and very rich in flavours, and the deserts are to die for, which in many cases l am sure is what happens. In particular the Cannoli. I actually had the best baked cheese cake l have ever had there as well. The best restaurants we went to were, Oinos, Per Bacco ( cheesecake)
We visited a couple of beaches, Cassabile was one which was a beautiful beach but full of rather rough people, the best was about an hour south called San Lorenzo, where there are chairs, umbrellas and a a bar, as well as accommodation.
We also went to the town of Noto which is not far from there and very popular now, it has a lovely feeling about it, but did not blow me away, though there are some incredible baroque balconies. Jayne did rather like it though.
On the way back to the airport we went to the inland town of Ragusa, and though it took us 1.5 hours to get there, and another 1.5 hours to the airport, plus the fact we were sent on roads through the countryside that had not been maintained for some time, in one case we had half the road collapsed down the cliff face, and a landslide across the other half, but we made it. Ragusa is made up of two halves, and this came about partly by the earthquake back in 1693 flattened a lot of it, it was then that one half went Baroque and the other half more structured and modern over time. So if you go make sure you get to the old part, as otherwise it aint much. The old part has a lovely garden and obviously church.
As well as just an enjoyable walk around, there seems to be quite a bit of accommodation there. We had lunch at La Piazzetta, which was surprisingly good, as it was in the main square, and the owner was a delightful person who made you feel like family.
So we arrive home and the next day the boys arrived back exhausted and for Hunty a bit sick with a bug.
Now while we were away there was a large fire in the palazzo next door, the top two floors being burnt out, it started apparently from the kitchen of the top apartment where a Romanian family lived, the husband a convicted armed robber, which makes me realize how good the neighborhood is. When l asked if anyone had been killed, my friend said you cant kill them!!
Anyway the street is partially closed which is a bit annoying, as Jayne has to walk another 3 minutes to get to her favorite bar for a cappucino in the morning. And with the insurance company and the fire investigation unit looking into the cause it may take several months to open the street, and years to fix the building. The only good thing is we get this lovely burnt smell, which reminds us of home.
So l have been busy in the studio getting ready for a show in Wangaratta and Hong Kong, and next week l spend the entire time in Venice printing my 60 or so woodcuts, which l am looking forward to doing and spending such a length in Venice, as well the Biennale is on.
lunedì 29 aprile 2013
Le Marche
We decided to take a few days and visit a region connected to Emilio Romagna, Le Marche. Now a lot of people have not heard of this region, you all know Tuscany, Veneto, but this region that runs along the Adriatic sea, and next to Umbria, Ancona would be the biggest city on the coast.
Now we have been told that you can get some reasonably cheap land there, and after visiting there is a reason.
Don't get me wrong, there were places and sites we loved, but generally, Le Marche is over run with industry and its ugly big buildings, and some shocking looking new housing. The landscape has been scattered heavily in this, and you rarely see a post card view like Umbria or Tuscany. We stayed near the city of Ascoli Piceno, in a villa that was family run, Villa Cicchi, it was wonderful, terrific food and service. The bed was a bit solid as where the pillows , but after three nights it was not so bad!
We had two dinner meals there, and they kindly put us next to the open fire, which l am sure made everyone else wonder, who the hell are those people, l wore my bright colours, so they most likely thought l was someone, or a clown!.
The city of Ascoli Piceno is very pretty, it says it has one of the prettiest piazza in Italy, the piazza of the people!, but l am here to say the piazza santo stefano is prettier. That said it had some great piazzas, and buildings, we were there during a food festival, which always helps, and there were truck loads of restaurants to visit, along with accommodation places if you want to stay in town. The Duomo had a wedding, which we watched, l have seen better looking brides, and l think the groom had too, but he was in no way to make choices. The town is busier and bigger than you think, l believe it is around 100,000 people, and it was difficult getting out of. It lies between two rivers and hills, so l kept mixing up which hill was which and which river was which. We took the scenic trip back to the villa twice!
We went to an outlet area one day to see the Prada and Tods stores, and left with a ceramic robot pendant for Ewan and l left my jumper in a shoe store, so that was not a great event. But these outlet complex's are amazing, there were thousands of people, in some cases you have to queue to get in, and then you see people leaving with box's and bags from Prada etc, the sales are good but not that good, and there are sometimes reasons why they are on sale. These outlet places are all over Italy, many are around Florence and Milan, but all high end labels, like Gucci, Prada, Armani, Burberry , etc.
Another town we were told about was Fermo, nice piazza, the people l think stay inside till 5.30pm, l don't know but l think there may be a wolf man who wanders the streets eating people up till 5.30pm. Anyway we were sitting having a drink in the empty piazza, the bells rang 5.30 and then everybody came out. ( let me make it clear that Jayne thinks this statement is stupid) But thats all l have to say about the place. When l told the owner of the villa we went to Fermo, she looked at me with a look, l then felt safe to say, boring! She nodded.
But she then told me to visit Offida the next day, which we did and this was a real treat. It has the church of Santa Maria sitting up on the hillside, with two sides of vertical cliffs, so it stands out wonderfully well when you approach it . When you walk up to enter you go through the doors, and are met by a 2.5 metre high vaulted ceiling a Romanesque/Gothic temple, which is odd as the church is 30 metres high. This is the crypt and it is covered in Giotto style frescoes ( by Maestro of Offida 14,15thC), sadly they have fallen away in some cases, but there are some terrific examples, and vivid colours. There are two small alter blocks that apparently where used for sacrifices in the very very old days. The church was first built in 1039, then rebuilt in 1330, then some more work in 1694 and a bit more in the 18th C. You walk through this area which is truly incredible and up some small stairs into the main church which of course is hugh, more works by Maestro of Offida and Maestro Ugolino di Vanneda da Milano, as well as Fra Marino Angeli. The sad thing l noticed was some graffiti on the works, people had decided they should scratch their names into the pictures. The first graffiti l noticed was from 1500s, which puts it into a certain space, but then l noticed some from the 1990s, so l guess a graffitist is a graffitist. Either way you should visit this church. In the town is also a very small theatre, that can seat about 70 in the stalls, and 50 boxes that take about 2-4 people each. It is very tiny, and called the Serpente Aureo. It dates back to the around 1770, and modernized? In 1862, and again in 1922, and most recently in 2002. It is a real baroque design, with a 7 metre auditorium in the shape of a horse shoe. The theatre does not have a facade and you enter it through the portico of the town hall.
Another point of interest in Offida is that the women of Offida of all ages sit in doorways involved in their work of "Merletto a Tombolo" (bobbin lace) Now this is not my bag, but it is exceptionally skilled and in some cases very beautiful. Another thing of interest is at some point in summer they dress up in red and white, and get a white bull with red stripes on it and, the rest is a bit of a mystery, but thats what l got from the photos. But whenever there is an animal especially a bull involved you have to think it could be interesting.
And so our short trip into le Marche was interesting, with some terrific things to see, but the landscape is a bit sad, the people are friendly, the food is generally fried, there is a simpler way of living than Bologna, though they are both farming people, but the Bolognese tend to dress up and act with a certain sense of nobility. The people of le Marche are maybe a bit more real, but l wish they would dress up and loose a bit of weight, and stop building crappy houses. Ohh the coastline is a disaster with high rise apartments and hotels crowding the beach which is covered in summer in chairs and umbrellas, but that's Italy, and we love it.
Now we have been told that you can get some reasonably cheap land there, and after visiting there is a reason.
Don't get me wrong, there were places and sites we loved, but generally, Le Marche is over run with industry and its ugly big buildings, and some shocking looking new housing. The landscape has been scattered heavily in this, and you rarely see a post card view like Umbria or Tuscany. We stayed near the city of Ascoli Piceno, in a villa that was family run, Villa Cicchi, it was wonderful, terrific food and service. The bed was a bit solid as where the pillows , but after three nights it was not so bad!
We had two dinner meals there, and they kindly put us next to the open fire, which l am sure made everyone else wonder, who the hell are those people, l wore my bright colours, so they most likely thought l was someone, or a clown!.
The city of Ascoli Piceno is very pretty, it says it has one of the prettiest piazza in Italy, the piazza of the people!, but l am here to say the piazza santo stefano is prettier. That said it had some great piazzas, and buildings, we were there during a food festival, which always helps, and there were truck loads of restaurants to visit, along with accommodation places if you want to stay in town. The Duomo had a wedding, which we watched, l have seen better looking brides, and l think the groom had too, but he was in no way to make choices. The town is busier and bigger than you think, l believe it is around 100,000 people, and it was difficult getting out of. It lies between two rivers and hills, so l kept mixing up which hill was which and which river was which. We took the scenic trip back to the villa twice!
We went to an outlet area one day to see the Prada and Tods stores, and left with a ceramic robot pendant for Ewan and l left my jumper in a shoe store, so that was not a great event. But these outlet complex's are amazing, there were thousands of people, in some cases you have to queue to get in, and then you see people leaving with box's and bags from Prada etc, the sales are good but not that good, and there are sometimes reasons why they are on sale. These outlet places are all over Italy, many are around Florence and Milan, but all high end labels, like Gucci, Prada, Armani, Burberry , etc.
Another town we were told about was Fermo, nice piazza, the people l think stay inside till 5.30pm, l don't know but l think there may be a wolf man who wanders the streets eating people up till 5.30pm. Anyway we were sitting having a drink in the empty piazza, the bells rang 5.30 and then everybody came out. ( let me make it clear that Jayne thinks this statement is stupid) But thats all l have to say about the place. When l told the owner of the villa we went to Fermo, she looked at me with a look, l then felt safe to say, boring! She nodded.
But she then told me to visit Offida the next day, which we did and this was a real treat. It has the church of Santa Maria sitting up on the hillside, with two sides of vertical cliffs, so it stands out wonderfully well when you approach it . When you walk up to enter you go through the doors, and are met by a 2.5 metre high vaulted ceiling a Romanesque/Gothic temple, which is odd as the church is 30 metres high. This is the crypt and it is covered in Giotto style frescoes ( by Maestro of Offida 14,15thC), sadly they have fallen away in some cases, but there are some terrific examples, and vivid colours. There are two small alter blocks that apparently where used for sacrifices in the very very old days. The church was first built in 1039, then rebuilt in 1330, then some more work in 1694 and a bit more in the 18th C. You walk through this area which is truly incredible and up some small stairs into the main church which of course is hugh, more works by Maestro of Offida and Maestro Ugolino di Vanneda da Milano, as well as Fra Marino Angeli. The sad thing l noticed was some graffiti on the works, people had decided they should scratch their names into the pictures. The first graffiti l noticed was from 1500s, which puts it into a certain space, but then l noticed some from the 1990s, so l guess a graffitist is a graffitist. Either way you should visit this church. In the town is also a very small theatre, that can seat about 70 in the stalls, and 50 boxes that take about 2-4 people each. It is very tiny, and called the Serpente Aureo. It dates back to the around 1770, and modernized? In 1862, and again in 1922, and most recently in 2002. It is a real baroque design, with a 7 metre auditorium in the shape of a horse shoe. The theatre does not have a facade and you enter it through the portico of the town hall.
Another point of interest in Offida is that the women of Offida of all ages sit in doorways involved in their work of "Merletto a Tombolo" (bobbin lace) Now this is not my bag, but it is exceptionally skilled and in some cases very beautiful. Another thing of interest is at some point in summer they dress up in red and white, and get a white bull with red stripes on it and, the rest is a bit of a mystery, but thats what l got from the photos. But whenever there is an animal especially a bull involved you have to think it could be interesting.
And so our short trip into le Marche was interesting, with some terrific things to see, but the landscape is a bit sad, the people are friendly, the food is generally fried, there is a simpler way of living than Bologna, though they are both farming people, but the Bolognese tend to dress up and act with a certain sense of nobility. The people of le Marche are maybe a bit more real, but l wish they would dress up and loose a bit of weight, and stop building crappy houses. Ohh the coastline is a disaster with high rise apartments and hotels crowding the beach which is covered in summer in chairs and umbrellas, but that's Italy, and we love it.
Jayne in the prettiest piazza?
A quick update
Thought it has been sometime since l gave an update on us and how we are feeling.
Hunter and Ewan are enjoying school ,though there are times still that they get sick of it, especially the small playground, and difficulty playing sport. There are a couple of difficult kids, and there is always the issue of language that upsets Hunter. Ewan is much better speaking and understanding Italian, but Hunter is slowly improving, they have a tutor once a week, who they enjoy. They both play calcio (soccer) every weekend, and really enjoy the matches, mostly they are at their home ground (Bologna football club) Hunter is mostly in the backline, though with his speed he is put on the wing, it is just that most kids want to be in the forward to get goals. And that is the problem most kids just hog the ball and go for some ridiculous glory goal, and miss. Ewan is sometimes wing or centre forward, he has a natural ability to get himself in the right position to tap in goals. But Hunter has more the natural ability of the play of the game and l guess is rather reliable in the back line. The team lineup changes each week, as there are three teams, the boys play in team B,C, as their level is not A, and the coach keeps them together to save us driving to two different places. They may well do a summer soccer camp which l think will help them get to know and be known by the other kids better.
Homework is a choir, the boys strangely don't like doing it, Jayne and l have gone mad trying to help or push them along, and finally have said don't worry to ourselves, what happens happens, They will quickly find out as they get into trouble for not doing it, or doing it badly. We may have been too helpful and they need to do these things on their own a bit more.
Jayne is busy having Italian conversation meetings with seemingly half of Bologna, and a class once a week, so her Italian only gets better and better. She has been talking about doing some singing class's, l hope she does, as l think she would really enjoy it, and feel a self confidence.
I am on a roll in the studio, working on a large series for the Wangarratta show, my mind is in a good place. Have been going to the tennis club gym every day nearly and doing a 1/2 hour workout. Keeps me fit and my mind active, and a quick break form the studio, to stop the RSI from doing woodcuts.
Recently l was riding up to the art shop and saw the local police parked in a Lambourghini, when you see police with these cars, you just love the idea of a police state. It took the officer a while to get out of the seat, but he looked great in his designer uniform. I really think we could improve the Victorian police uniform, with just some more tapered pants, fitted shirts and a german like hat!
Hunter and Ewan are enjoying school ,though there are times still that they get sick of it, especially the small playground, and difficulty playing sport. There are a couple of difficult kids, and there is always the issue of language that upsets Hunter. Ewan is much better speaking and understanding Italian, but Hunter is slowly improving, they have a tutor once a week, who they enjoy. They both play calcio (soccer) every weekend, and really enjoy the matches, mostly they are at their home ground (Bologna football club) Hunter is mostly in the backline, though with his speed he is put on the wing, it is just that most kids want to be in the forward to get goals. And that is the problem most kids just hog the ball and go for some ridiculous glory goal, and miss. Ewan is sometimes wing or centre forward, he has a natural ability to get himself in the right position to tap in goals. But Hunter has more the natural ability of the play of the game and l guess is rather reliable in the back line. The team lineup changes each week, as there are three teams, the boys play in team B,C, as their level is not A, and the coach keeps them together to save us driving to two different places. They may well do a summer soccer camp which l think will help them get to know and be known by the other kids better.
Homework is a choir, the boys strangely don't like doing it, Jayne and l have gone mad trying to help or push them along, and finally have said don't worry to ourselves, what happens happens, They will quickly find out as they get into trouble for not doing it, or doing it badly. We may have been too helpful and they need to do these things on their own a bit more.
Jayne is busy having Italian conversation meetings with seemingly half of Bologna, and a class once a week, so her Italian only gets better and better. She has been talking about doing some singing class's, l hope she does, as l think she would really enjoy it, and feel a self confidence.
I am on a roll in the studio, working on a large series for the Wangarratta show, my mind is in a good place. Have been going to the tennis club gym every day nearly and doing a 1/2 hour workout. Keeps me fit and my mind active, and a quick break form the studio, to stop the RSI from doing woodcuts.
Recently l was riding up to the art shop and saw the local police parked in a Lambourghini, when you see police with these cars, you just love the idea of a police state. It took the officer a while to get out of the seat, but he looked great in his designer uniform. I really think we could improve the Victorian police uniform, with just some more tapered pants, fitted shirts and a german like hat!
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