Jayne as usual found a most remarkable place called Villa Albergati on the internet, about 20 minutes out of Bologna, a rather ugly building on the outside, but amazing inside with its frescoes, and stairwells, anybody who was somebody stayed there, Voltaire, Napoleon, kings, queens etc. They have for 4 months of the year a fabulous feast on sundays, 35 euro for adults, 18 for kids, l have not eaten better anywhere.
There is a massive table in the dining room, covered in every type of food imaginable, in the old kitchen next door is another large table covered in every desert imaginable, and your job is to work your way through it all, going back an back with a fresh plate. There are several rooms , with about 200 people for lunch, and the food just keeps being replaced from the kitchen with new variations. After lunch we went on a tour of the villa, and later played soccer in the grounds, before collecting some firewood for a fire at home. The villa was saved by 12 investors who bought it from a man who lived in one of the rooms, having to sell of some of the land just to keep it. So before it was lost forever they stepped in and it is used for functions and conferences through out the year, as well as the sunday feasts. In its hey day it had land all the way to Modena and produced hugh amounts of wine that was exported to the USA, and vegetables locally and famous chocolate. We sat at table 13 which was good, as it was in a smaller room, right next to the food, and not as loud as the main dining room.
At the time we had Glenda and Claudio stay with us, Glenda taught us Italian back in Seymour for a year or so before we came over . They had been traveling around Italy and Ireland, so we got a few more lessons, which can never hurt. Jayne is getting better by the day, l am at least watching some tv shows in Italian, and reading the headlines in the newspaper and looking at the pictures, just like at home with the Sun Herald.
Halloween is hugh here, which surprised me, l did not think the Italians would get involved in a retail propaganda stunt, but l guess the idea of dressing up and partying helps. The boys are off tonight to a halloween party at the school, Ewan is a ninja warrior and Hunter is dracula, hopefully memories of watching Nosferatu with me will come in handy.
Last night we went to the Saint Celilia church, where we have been many times and watched a young women (Chiara Cattani) play the harpsichord for an hour, she was brilliant, works by Handel, Scarlatti and a modern piece by D.Salvatore, La Follia. The boys came as well and were pretty good , considering we arrived 45 minutes early, as it was day light saving, obviously l missed this article in the newspaper!. So they sat for 1.45 , and though they were in a giggling fit at the beginning settled down very well, l did remind Jayne that not many kids would listen to someone playing a harpsichord for 10 minutes.
Tonight l see another studio space in Via Independenza, the one in Strada Maggoire fell through, the owner was worried about mysteries, my friend described him as a meteorological man. So fingers crossed, as l cant keep painting water colours for ever.
Bologna keeps impressing me, last week l discovered another major museum (Collezioni Comunali d'arte) that is located next to the Morandi museum, it is the local council collection, as is massive and set in the most stately rooms and space. One particular artist who shone for me was Pelagio Palagi, wonderful unfinished in appearance portraits, the faces are done but the bodies and often background is raw linen. There was also this perfect marble sculpture of a young boy and an eel, l will have to go back and see it again, and remember the artist name.
This museum along with Museo Civico Medievale, which is down next to Fava Museum are must sees.
On saturday night a strange thing happened we had our first non Italian meal, we went out to an Indian restaurant, and it may not have been in the league that we have in Melbourne, it was a welcome feeling to have something else besides pasta, pizza. The lassi drinks were great, Hunter in particular was a hugh fan, and it reminded us of Boost bars, which we miss. Anyone who wants to make some money should open one here, l am sure even though it is a coffee culture, they would do very well.
And so here l am, the weather is colder, much colder, Jayne has just got back from her gym session, looks like we are having xmas and new year in Cortina skiing, so all aint too bad! Qantas has grounded all its fleet, each day brings another jump or fall in the stock market, as we discover what Europe is doing or not. I just finished reading 1984, and realize things have not changed, but feel good that outside everyone is eating well, taking their time and living like human beings.
Now l must go, as the computer screen is reminding me of the telescreen in 1984, and l fear that l am being corrupted.
2 + 2 = 4.
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