This weekend , we had an extended couple of days, thanks to Saint Petronio of Bologna, so we decided to leave on friday and go to Pietrasanta, a place that Michaelangelo got some of his marble. We stayed at a terrific eco, bio B&B. It is run by an artist, who was originally from the USA, but has lived most of her life in Italy, Kyle, and her partner Dado who like Kyle was the most charming and considerate hosts we have had. Getting to Almora was rather tricky, perfect directions, but as they say you come to a bridge on your left with the sign of the B&B, cross the bridge, well this is where l got a small concern, it was a terribly thin bridge, and l wondered what weight it could take. But what made me wonder most was where did the road go, as you looked at it, it just seemed to finish. So we turned the side mirrors in, and eased our way across, as we got to the other side, l realized that a road did in-fact turn to the right, very sharply, and the road got thinner. Now the mirrors are already in, so, and l know it did not help, but l sucked in and carefully drove around, careful not to smash the house wall on one side or roll over into a river below. Finally after a nervous couple of minutes we made it there, and as they said the second time is much easier. He was right, by the 6th time l was feeling much better, but still breathed a sense of relieve. So as long as you don't have to leave in an emergency, or drink too much getting there is fine. The place had lovely views over a small valley, was quite, but the sounds of birds and occasional cat squealing, or a car horn , as they warned on coming traffic down a thin road they were approaching. We woke each morning to a superb breakfast by Dado and chatted for a couple of hours with delight. Luckily we left sometime in the day to visit Lucca, which is a walled city, rather popular with tourists, reminded me of Sienna, as there were way too many crowds and accents. Had a terrible lunch at a place that trip advisor suggested, but l think that is because most people after eating there don't complain, so that reminds me l must write a review of the place. We hired bikes and rode around the perimeter wall which gave you a great look at the city and sense of size. The area around the wall is terrific, grassed moat area which you can play or ride the bikes, very green. on the wall top there are small porta buildings that have various offerings. One was a most detailed exhibition of a 100 or so mushrooms, and it was impressive. Puccini was born here, and his house is open to see, Ewan and l found it, but by that time Jayne and Hunty were somewhere else, so next time! We got back and made a careful trip down to Pietrasanta for dinner.
Pietrasanta is very arty, the most galleries in a small place l have seen, all mostly modern, and the main piazza had a sculpture on show, as well as in an old Roman church, which is dedicated to exhibiting artists. There are lots of very good restaurants, and it was not hard to get a good meal, that night we ate at La Vineria. The next night it was Giglio, both excellent. Piertasanta is full of artists who are getting their works turned in to marble by either local artisans, or what is popular now sadly laser and computer cutters. So the international artist turns up gives them his/ her marque and goes of to the beach for a few months, checking occasionally, and then returning home, and saying ohh look how good am l. Sadly artisans are nearly lost, as the few that are left come from a generation where they began their training at 12/ 14 and worked in workshops on various area until decided what they were best at, some were doing fabric detail, others hands and feet, some faces etc.
On the last day we went via Carrara to see the marble mines. I am happy to say that we shall never run out of marble, though the arabs are doing their best. It was incredible to see mountains of white marble, blocks 9, 6, 3 x 2 x3 meters cut out at the top half, and even larger blocks lower down. They cut them with diamond chains in a very clever method, and the cost of the marble is obviously dictated by the pureness of the marble. Trucks then carry it down the very winding road, that has used massive blocks of marble to edge the side of the roads. They then reach a gate where the truck is weighed, and the quality priced, and then it is taxed on that. So the government is making money there at least.
The boys and l on the way out, jumped quickly to the side of the road and got some pieces of marble to try to carve at, l can assure you they will never miss those pieces, and we never got taxed which is always a winning feeling.
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