The Dowds in Bologna

The Dowds in Bologna

A time past in Arezzo

A time past in Arezzo

The 8 Gang

The 8 Gang

Family at San Cesario de Lecce

Family at San Cesario de Lecce

mercoledì 30 novembre 2011

Times they are not a changin, here at least!

I read the Australian papers, l watch CNN and hear of the collapsing world, the end is nigh, ohhh lord why does thee forsake me stuff, and  then l walk out the door and all is as normal. Italians, or maybe Bolognese wont accept it , or maybe they don't watch CNN, who can blame them. Either way, they walk the streets with their shopping label bags of desire, they are in the bars chatting over a expresso and brioche, the osteria's are full, even the street beggers are not complaining. The weather has been unseasonally good, the streets are lined with wonderful christmas lights and decorations, maybe they listened to Gerard Harvey when he said if we all woke up the next morning and said what crisis and just acted as normal , it would be normal.
Next issue of thought, l went to my bank yesterday to transfer some funds back to Australia, as l am a bit nervous that some of the many banks here may come into some difficulty, and the staff member who does international transfers was not there, so a kind women had a go, then said "computer say no" best to come back tomorrow. So l came back today and the women who does the transfers was there, l explained what l wanted to do, then she said yes, would you like to do that now!, of course my mind said something sarcastic, but my mouth, said that would be great. And that is Italy now, then and always, there is always tomorrow to pay off the national debt, the national bonds are at record highs, but maybe they wont be tomorrow.!
Now there are so many great things about Italy, and l rarely like to complain, as l am a guest and this is Italy, but it is true the Romans gave us roads, aquaducts, and syphillis, but what they did not give and have no idea about is supermarkets. Now we mainly shop at the local speciality stores, but occasionally we do the big shop for toilet paper, toothpaste, and a million other things you didn't know you needed. And the problem l have is the aisles are too thin, there seems to be no rhyme or reason to where things are put, people happily chat away in the middle of the isle oblivious to you wanting to get past, the check out areas are too small, and the area where the food pass's to be packed by yourself is tiny, and the check out chick is way too fast, so the food piles up, and always the bread and avocado is on the bottom, even when l put them on last. So l go into a panic and go as quick as l can to fill my eco bags, but there is just not enough room, the food keeps piling up, in fact l think there are foods we have not even purchased thrown in by some evil doer just to keep me mad. Then comes the bill, no matter what it is you end up with lots of coins, mainly copper, they still have 1,2,5 cent coins, why?
That said, life is wonderful here and l agree with most other forms of shopping.
I turn 49 tomorrow, and today l am dressed as Woody from Toy Story, make what you will with that.
Just found out we have to purchase "winter tyres" something new for me, apparently winter can be rather slippery and snow, now l hope it is not just over kill, but we are getting some Bridgestone Blizzards, which sound great, but l fear too much went into the marketing of these tyres as the price is rather high. We are off to Cortina ( a name that says wonderful snow, views and skiing, but also an average popular car) in our Honda, with BLIZZARD tyres which l am sure we will need there. So this christmas will be white, we are staying in an apartment in the town, sharing it with some lovely Italian friends we have made here.
Hunter has a friend who made 200 euro doing some photos for Armani Kids, he now is very keen to do some modeling, and every day asks if we can go there so he can do it and get the money. He has also instructed me to put the money in a bank account. On the other side, Ewan is carrying around right now a soft santa that plays "you better watch out, santa claus is coming to town" and asking do you think he will get as many presents as last year. He is not asking me to place his money in a bank account, as he spends it too quickly.
Jayne bought some very expensive looking boots yesterday, put them on and asked me what l thought, l liked them ,but worried about the cost, she said she got them for 40 euro, l love them now!
Tonight we had another great meal by Jayne, rabbit ragu, so here we are eating fine rabbit, while back home l have given instructions to put out bait to kill them at Teneriffe.
I found a  new studio finally, Via Remorsella, 13a, it used to be a doctors room, it has a small reception area with windows to the road on two sides, so good light, l will use this more for display and doing small works, then through a door to a larger room, but not large where l will paint. In the back there is a toilet, and large wash basin, this area also has natural light, and  electric security cage over the windows. It is a few minutes walk from the house, all under cover, quite street, so l should not have too many people peering in the windows. Looking forward to getting back into a studio, doing the small works on cardboard has been good, and l am sure will lead into bigger and better things. I love cardboard, l have become quite the connoisseur about the qualities and texture, and can often be seen going through the bins of Bologna.

domenica 20 novembre 2011

Bologna, bellissimo

Bologna, the city that keeps on giving. Well the christmas decorations are starting to spring up, thank fully no silly old santas in the windows, but some shops have put some incredible effort in their displays, like the Myer windows but on a smaller level. But what really has been extravagant is the chocolate fair that has come to Piazza Maggiore , 70 stands, selling, displaying the best chocolate and most amazing ideas. There is chocolate in all sorts of shapes, forms and styles, there is chocolate as a large spinning lamb kebab, that they carve of slices of chocolate. Chocolate in the form of salami, bread rolls, parmesan cheese, every possible character, mobile phones, cameras, rusty old tool from long forgotten sheds. On the fashion side, shoes formed into stilettos, handbags, runners, shirt and ties. There are so many variations of hot chocolate , white, dark, milk, hazelnut, nutella and hybrids. There of course is the small delicate pieces that nanna likes to get for christmas, and willy wonker wrapped blocks. The question is where to start and when to stop, neither l have done well, who thought l could have spent 35 euro at one stand for myself. The fair has gone for 4 days, and happens every year, great for christmas presents.
The temperature has now dropped down to 10 - 12 during the days, but often with sunshine, and down to 0-3 during the night, but the streets are still full of people in their puffy jackets, l'd love a dime for every puffy jacket, I'm sure they have a better name for it as that does not sound so cool.
Now yesterday we all went on the train to Florence, nice city!
The Duomo really could use a clean, the amount of dark mould or acid rain effect was very disappointing, and i've seen better interiors. The Uffizi was something else, besides no cue to get in and finally able to use our residence cards to get cheaper tickets, made me look at the poor tourists paying the 4 euros more in  a way that felt good. The art is famous, and there was no disappointment, l especially liked Botticelli pictures, particularly Spring, there was a El Greco, which speaks for itself and a few Caravaggio's. There were two Venetian painters , Jacapo Zucchi and Jacapo Chimenti who l found interesting and the Tintoretto portraits. I picked up a book by Georgio Vasari, about the lives of artists of the time, he himself was an artist and friend of the Medici's. Of course there is all the sculptures and the views along the river and on to Ponte Vecchio, so that made it a very good day for me.
My main interest in going to Florence was to see Cellini's  "Perseus" in the Loggia della Signoria, it did not let me down, surrounded by other great works (Hercules and Nessus by Giambologna), it is an amazing porch! and should never be missed.
Maybe l am becoming a bit loyal to Bologna, but l found Florence so so, obviously except for the Uffizi. l missed the portico's, and it really is a tourist city, which is good in the manner that it is clean, but everyone speaks English, and though it is comfortable, it does not help to learn, and makes you feel you are at Disneyland.
It takes just over 30 minutes to get there from Bologna on the fast train, and cost us 132 euro for the family return.
Next time l want to visit the house of  Rodolfo  Siviero, a man who helped return many of the stolen artworks back from Germany to Italy, many of which are in the Uffici.
Tomorrow l see another possible studio, so fingers crossed, l have now set up a table in the entry of the house and painting on  horse scenes cardboard, its amazing how many horses you see in art, still have no interest in  riding them, and think you have to be crazy to want to have them, but they are great to paint, and you can always find some statue of a bloke on one in every city.

lunedì 31 ottobre 2011

Villa Albergati, and other things

Jayne as usual found a most remarkable place called Villa Albergati on the internet, about 20 minutes out of Bologna, a rather ugly building on the outside, but amazing inside with its frescoes, and stairwells, anybody who was somebody stayed there, Voltaire, Napoleon, kings, queens etc. They have for 4 months of the year a fabulous feast on sundays, 35 euro for adults, 18 for kids, l have not eaten better anywhere.
There is a massive table in the dining room, covered in every type of food imaginable, in the old kitchen next door is another large table covered in every desert imaginable, and your job is to work your way through it all, going back an back with a fresh plate. There are several rooms , with about 200 people for lunch, and the food just keeps being replaced from the kitchen with new variations. After lunch we went on a tour of the villa, and later played soccer in the grounds, before collecting some firewood for a fire at home. The villa was saved by 12 investors who bought it from a man who lived in one of the rooms, having to sell of some of the land just to keep it. So before it was lost forever they stepped in and it is used for functions and conferences through out the year, as well as the sunday feasts. In its hey day it had land all the way to Modena and produced hugh amounts of wine that was exported to the USA, and vegetables locally and famous chocolate. We sat at table 13 which was good, as it was in a smaller room, right next to the food, and not as loud as the main dining room.
At the time we had Glenda and Claudio stay with us, Glenda taught us Italian back in Seymour for a  year or so before we came over . They had been traveling around Italy and Ireland, so we got a few more lessons, which can never hurt. Jayne is getting better by the day, l am at least watching some tv shows in Italian, and reading the headlines in the newspaper and looking at the pictures, just like at home with the Sun Herald.
Halloween is hugh here, which surprised me, l did not think the Italians would get involved in a retail propaganda stunt, but l guess the idea of dressing up and partying helps. The boys are off tonight to a halloween party at the school, Ewan is a ninja warrior and Hunter is dracula, hopefully memories of watching Nosferatu with me will come in handy.
Last night we went to the Saint Celilia church, where we have been many times and watched a young women (Chiara Cattani) play the harpsichord for an hour, she was brilliant, works by Handel, Scarlatti and a modern piece by D.Salvatore, La Follia. The boys came as well and were pretty good , considering we arrived 45 minutes early, as it was day light saving, obviously l missed this article in the newspaper!. So they sat for 1.45 , and though they were in a giggling fit at the beginning settled down very well, l did remind Jayne that not many kids would listen to someone playing a harpsichord for 10 minutes.
Tonight l see another studio space in Via Independenza, the one in Strada Maggoire fell through, the owner was worried about mysteries, my friend described him as a meteorological man. So fingers crossed, as l cant keep painting water colours for ever.
Bologna keeps impressing me, last week l discovered another major museum (Collezioni Comunali d'arte) that is located next to the Morandi museum, it is the local council collection, as is massive and set in the most stately rooms and space. One particular artist who shone for me was Pelagio Palagi, wonderful unfinished in appearance portraits, the faces are done but the bodies and often background is raw linen. There was also this perfect marble sculpture of a young boy and an eel, l will have to go back and see it again, and remember the artist name.
This museum along with Museo Civico Medievale, which is down next to Fava Museum are must sees.
On saturday night a strange thing happened we had our first non Italian meal, we went out to an Indian restaurant, and it may not have been in the league that we have in Melbourne, it was a welcome feeling to have something else besides pasta, pizza. The lassi drinks were great, Hunter in particular was a hugh fan, and it reminded us of Boost bars, which we miss. Anyone who wants to make some money should open one here, l am sure even though it is a coffee culture, they would do very well.
And so here l am, the weather is colder, much colder, Jayne has just got back from her gym session, looks like we are having xmas and new year in Cortina skiing, so all aint too bad! Qantas has grounded all its fleet, each day brings another jump or fall in the stock market, as we discover what Europe is doing or not. I just finished reading 1984, and realize things have not changed, but feel good that outside everyone is eating well, taking their time and living like human beings.
Now l must go, as the computer screen is reminding me of the telescreen in 1984, and l fear that l am being corrupted.
2 + 2 = 4.

Table of earthly delights, Villa Albergati

Table of earthly delights, Villa Albergati 

Glenda and Claudio , Villa Albergati

Glenda and Claudio , Villa Albergati

What every kitchen needs, a stuffed crocodile

What every kitchen needs, a stuffed crocodile

One of the many ceilings

One of the many ceilings

sabato 15 ottobre 2011

Recent events and thoughts

The latest thing to happen in my world, is l have had to move out of my studio, due to the person l sub-rented through having a disagreement with the owner, so we were given 10 days to move out, which was rather tricky with large thick oil paintings, that were far from dry. Obviously l was pissed, but maybe living in Italy has calmed me a bit, and the fact that the bureaucracy has taught me to be patient (piano, piano)
So a week later, and l may! be moving into a new one just a few minutes from the house, but the owner wanted to meet me first (am sub-renting again from the same guy, you think I'm mad?). He met me today, and the fact that language between us was held to hello, goodbye, l am told it went well. He is going to check out my website, god knows what that will make him think, and his son may ring me, who does speak english. So maybe by monday l will know, and maybe not.
The fact that l put in new lighting 3 weeks ago in the old studio, and had to buy a sink and bench unit for the old studio, is frustrating, but we may well end up getting them back this week, as in Italy everyone brings their own kitchen with them , when they move. These are not remarkable kitchens, often IKEA kitchens, and definitely on the small side.
The new studio , has good light, not great light, but a kitchen (not mine) and a bathroom, heating and wifi. Its only now l realize how good my old studio was, anyway, artists are meant to suffer, maybe this will improve my work!
The boys have been rather painful lately, and Jayne and l have taken to the old threatening no birthday party line, 30 days out. l think they smelt a rat quickly, and have no fear of that it seems now. Still they have had a big change, and school work has become more involved. On the positive side they are doing well in drama, probably due to the play acting they are doing with us regarding the birthday party, and have started calcio (soccer, football). They play a a typical park area, which are found around Bologna, all built l would say in the 70s, needing some restoration. The grounds are mainly dirt, except the main ground, their coach is around 65, 5 foot tall, smokes and yells at them like a russian, he recently had them doing push ups, because some kid was crying and said they upset him, so the whole team was penalized. I like him, he brings a bit of reality to the game. The italian kids are just like the professional players, they fall down alot, crab their ankles, or plead for frees. I am proud to say Ewan got a ball kicked into his balls, and Hunter was pushed over twice, both got up, smiled and got on with it, though Ewans smile may have been a bit forced. What they lack in skill they make up with determination, fitness. They play in their soccer-roo tops, soon with the thermal leggings, as it is starting to get rather nippy.
Jayne is hoping they will join the choir, which is well attended by students, though they miss two lunchtime plays a week, which is a big deal to them.
We finally got our residency, which we were told we were getting 3 months ago, the hold up was that some dickhead had spelt Ewans middle name as Duc, not Doc ( this of course could cause a national intelligence disaster) , they blamed us, we did mention that we felt we would know how to spell our own child's name, did not seem to interest them, so about 150 euro later it is done. We now spend another 20 euro, plus the cost of 3 photos from a photo booth each to get residency cards. On the photo stuff, we also need another 3 photos of the boys to join the calcio club. Who the hell needs so many photos, Berlusconi could solve the Italian debt with the money made from the photo booths, he probably is, its just so expensive with his legal fees.
You also have to have a doctors certificate every-time your child joins anything, luckily we photo copied the one and use that.
Our piazza is again alive and well this weekend, a cake theme prevails, Kitchen Aid has a tent, a cup cake tent, cake demonstrations etc, the place was busy busy busy. Last weekend was the monthly market, which is hugh, we looked at one picture to buy, when we spoke to the women and she gave the sell on it, she asked where we were from, and then said that she bought the picture in Sydney, it was of a Frenchman who worked there for awhile at the beginning of the 1900s, all quite weird, we didn't but it.
Bologna has many african immigrants wandering the streets selling socks, tissues, etc, got to know a few of them, and they are from Liberia, which you should google as it is very interesting place and history. Anyway, they are happy smiling people, so l am happy to give them some money when they ask, the strange thing is l am seeing them a bit too often now, l fear they are now living outside our front door to the palazzo. Like swooping magpies, the boys and l now leave to school with hats on our heads and ride fast.

Out at our favourite osteria

Out at our favourite osteria

Mad hatters, Sal and Jayne

Mad hatters, Sal and Jayne

Sally Nance and girls at dinner with us

Sally Nance and girls at dinner with us

Somewhere to put my helmet

Somewhere to put my helmet 

Roman centry

Roman centry 

Roman helmet sale

Roman helmet sale

Ewan with his creation

Ewan with his creation

Hunter with masterpiece

Hunter with masterpiece 



venerdì 14 ottobre 2011

Canals of Bologna

Strange as it may sound, but once Bologna was similar to Venice. Many many years ago a river ran through Bologna, from the hills to the south, the river was used for drinking, washing and industry (silk and tannery) In fact the river had several water mills along it for such industries. As the years passed, the river was slowly built over, by people needing more space, and finally the river disappeared, and all that was left were canals underground. In the hills above Bologna there is still the reservoir and aqua-duct, built by the Romans to control the quality and amount of water going to Bologna for washing and drinking, the head pressure was used to power the fountains. The water was collected from the many streams and under ground seams that held water. The canal now has been concreted on the ground, and pipes move sewerage and water along it, though in heavy rains the canals fill up to around a meter deep. When you walk along them, you see the original Roman bridge which is underneath the main intersection at the two towers, and Etruscan brick, stone work as well. And signs where someone tried digging up into the bottom of a major bank at Piazza Minghetti, reminds me of the Italian Job.
They have many tours of the canals, though not over winter, one which might be fun is held on Halloween.
Apparently you can still see on some buildings metal hooks where boats would tie up to, its probably better covered, as it would be otherwise a visual river full of cigarette butts and dog shit.
We did this tour with about 15 people, and it was done by a new friend Massimo Martelli (Max), who is a loyal local, a art historian and professional guide, and knows everything about this wonderful city.

lunedì 26 settembre 2011

Bologna alive and well

Well the last weekend was busy busy busy in Bologna, it was like a boxing day sale, apparently there was a fair on and everyone came into town. The piazzas were alive as well, in Santo Stefano there was a promotion on sports, table tennis tables, soccer games, basketball (Bolognas big sport) rugby, orienteering, and of course the old favorite middle age fencing, sorry too confuse you, not middle age fencing, but Medieval sword fighting, as the swords are rather large and clumsy as compared to today, hence the fact you don't see it that much anymore, well not at the Olympics. The boys had a great time shooting baskets, and collected two rugby balls, which add to the aussie rule ball's, soccer ball's and tennis ball's.
Then over at Piazza Maggiore was an astonishing presentation and spectacular Roman army village, set up with tents, kitchen, shield and spear making, a physician tent and musical instrument demonstration. There was about 40 people involved, all in authentic uniforms, and they put on demonstrations of battle practice and  a shield scrum, that the Wallabies need to look at!
And like Arezzo, Italians look perfectly at ease in this gear, they have not changed at all in hundreds of years, there was only one weedy looking bloke, and he was on the catapult display. The armour was so well put together, it must have come from Gladiator the movie, but these bloke spoke italian.
I was so inspired l went out and bought Spartacus and Gladiator, and also came home with Young Frankenstein, the movie, just to bring a bit of balance to my tv viewing.
Without spoiling the surprise too much, a great deal of my painting has to do with this gladiator/ roman business, but l'll wait till they are well along before showing these pictures. Sadly for me l have the physique of a flag thrower in Arezzo, rather than a Roman centurion.
The boys have started with their tennis lessons, as well as learning some more Italian words, in particular, base line, serve, collect the balls, volley, the scores, racket and of course capisci!
Our friend Elisabeth had her bike stolen, they did not break the lock (titanium) but they actually lifted it up and over the 8 foot pole it was attached to, l wonder what people may have thought when they saw that happening, and having to carry it off to an angle grinder. It had a baby seat on the back, which l thought may have been in the thieving code of conduct a not to steal rule, obviously not!

Hunter with his coach

Hunter with his coach

Ewan at calcio, in socceroo outfit

Ewan at calcio, in socceroo outfit 

A bloke who was waiting for his residency

A bloke who was waiting for his residency 

Our new barbaque, 110 cm long, 15cm wide

Our new barbaque, 110 cm long, 15cm wide 

martedì 20 settembre 2011

What's been happening lately!

Thought it worth mentioning what has happened in the last few weeks, the Arezzo situation had forced me to go deep deep uncover.
Firstly as l quickly mentioned in the Arezzo report, Nine Leigh visited us from London. Sadly Neigh was getting kicked out of the country, as the customs women said she had travelled too often, even though her visa still had 5 months. Obviously the women had been in the glass box too long, and the instruments and computer radiation had hampered her mind. We are allowing people too illegally enter countries, but they decide to penalize you for traveling too much, go figure. Anyway Nine kindly came via Bologna on her way back to Melbourne, and for her kindness we put her in the back of the car to Arezzo to have Ewan vomit next to her.
Next came Sally Nance and the girls Ava and Claudia, on their world wind tour of Italy, Paris, Hong Kong and England ( not necessarily in that order) They were here for a couple of days and as all our guests noticed was the beauty of Bologna, and the usual request for Spaghetti Bolognese came, but it is different here, they don't use spaghetti and its called ragu, and it tastes better. Sallys italian is brilliant and it was wonderful having them here, as the boys enjoyed having some other kids from Australia to play with.
Now we have Luisa Moscato, who arrived late last night, Jayne went to the train station to pick her up at 4.30pm, but the train was delayed an hour, so she waited, they there was no information about the train on the board, after inquiring with the highly helpful railway staff ( l am of course being very sarcastic ) they told her it had arrived, it of course had not, but they didn't really care as it had come from Munich, and was not their problem. Jayne then came home thinking, Luisa will ring us and she had our address. Her husband then emailed to make sure she had arrived, l emailed back and said no, after a few emails back and forth about what to do, panic started to occur. It was getting dark, and we really did not know if she had caught the train, or the wrong train or been kidnapped by aliens. Jayne went back to the station, and this time found an office that was more helpful and said there was a train arriving soon from Munich via Verona, maybe she is on that one. She was, her train she originally caught was held up in a snow blizzard, and forced to catch a bus, then the bus was held up by an avalanche, finally back on another train and into Bologna 4 hours late, on a 7 hour trip. The question of why she did not have a mobile phone was brought up, apparently we have to ask her husband, Scott who did not think it necessary!
Now some news on the home front, Hunter has taken up to shaving! He came out of the shower much to my surprise with  a blood soaked mouth, completely unaware that it had happened when he decided to use Jaynes shaver in the shower, l said what the hell have you done, he said what?, i mentioned the blood, and he calmly said  ohhh! He now has two scabs above his lip.
Finally the weather has cooled down, and this makes it much more enjoyable, as l was sweating a bit too much, having to drink litres a day just to replenish.
I have my new bike finally, a six speed white one without the horizontal bar, l wont say a ladies bike as many men of high distinction or manly appearance ride them, and l am told it is the new look all over Europe. I ride it with a very straight back, and my neck scarf, occasionally whistling and saying bonjour, as l feel more french on a bike, this is not helping my Italian though.
I notice that all Italians in Bologna at least, don't seem to care if they are in your way as you walk along, they are all oblivious of anyone else but themselves, l don't think it is rudeness. Young boys don't move for an old lady and men just plow along at prams. but no one seems to care, except me, as it pisses me off. Now l think of it,  the amount of young children with broken arms, and in-fact elderly people is due to bumping into people as they walk along.
The other thing someone mentioned to me awhile ago is that Italians would never not pay for their expresso caffe ( you pay when you are leaving, and it costs 1 euro) but you would never leave your bike unlocked for a second. It is the two sided Italian society. Like Italians are known as hot heads and pick a fight over anything, but put them in a army uniform and they disappear. They drive like mad around the little streets, but have a 3 hour lunch.
We finally have a car space, about 5 minutes walk from the house, very smart indeed, you drive up, and someone comes out and parks it away for you, then when you want it, you ring ahead and they get it ready for you. But like all car parking it is expensive, l was able to get him down 130 euros/ month, and he even invited me to his house in the hills around Bologna to paint when l would like. So the friendliness of Bologna continues.
Now l must go and help Hunty join letters for writing homework, he is having problems with the letter f, and l now can hear the tv on and so Ewan has sneaked in and turned on Spongebob , and of course will tell me he has done everything!

Perseus, by Cellini

Perseus, by Cellini 

View down the River Arno

View down the River Arno

The boys with calzone

The boys with calzone