Cortina

Here we are in Cortina, the Aspen of Italy, but there are many differences. Firstly we rented an apartment for the month, so the boys and us have had lots of skiing. The first week was perfect, no one was here, the slopes were empty, though not alot of snow has fallen, they make plenty, and the runs were fine for us. The second week, just before Christmas day got busier and busier with Italians, and l am am told after new years eve they leave and the Russians come. I noted than in one of the pizzerias the menu was in Italian, English and Russsian.
Now the differences with Cortina and other famous ski places, to me is the quality of the shops and village, Cortina is very large and spread out, but there is a main street for pedestrians only and this is where the wild beasts of Cortina wander. I talk of course of the women but some men who cover themselves in furs, head to toe and parade up and down the street dropping in to galleries to see a Palladino, or Sandra Chia or to a bar or Enoteca to chat to other beasts. Hunter who by name mentioned his appraisal of them, in a question to me, dad why do all the people who wear furs have the same faces? We talk of orange faces, which have been surgically altered to become the beast, and the orange tablet or solarium lamps to give them their colour. These beasts don't ski, they wander in search of their own kind, though we saw one yesterday at the base of the ski slope, she was all white, a white woolen jump suit, with fur ankles and a fur ring hat, fur necklace and six inch high heals, along with the goldie locks hair and orange skin. I was so shocked to see this beast l actually had to walk over and have a good hard look. Others lie on the deck chairs that are out at the base of the slopes as their young ski the slopes.
The snow boarders, who l personnaly don't like alot, as they annoy me on the slopes, as l find it hard enough, don't dress up like the American boarders, to me to snow board is to dress up, and l still feel the best skiers wear fitted pants.
The boys have had two weeks of lessons and have moved through the classes and stages very quickly, they got their bronze badge and get their silver on Monday. Ewan has absolutely no fear and goes so fast straight down the hills, Hunter goes more for the 180, 360 degree turns and often is seen deliberately skiing backwards down the slope, he likes to finish off with a skid of snow flying in the air.
I do what l do, l feel that l look good, but like my golf swing l am sure if l saw a video l would be embarrassed. I do the blue and red runs, and had a go at the black runs last week, l got down one that has no name, just a number, 63 as it is a death defying run and brings fear to those who would dare mention it by name. I did it three times, cutting the snow Iike a butcher. This gave me the confidence to challenge a black slope that we can see from the apartment, it runs between two large rocks , l went up the chair lift three times, deciding each time to do the red instead , then l said no it ain't that steep go for it. l did , reached the edge and a vertical cliff of ice faced me, the angle of the chair lift and the slope are the same so it looks better from the lift. Still l was here and no turning back, l did the first, second turn, the slope was like an ice rink, the third l fell, muttering to myself to concentrate and cut the ice l lifted and hit the forth turn, my last turn, l fell, rolled and just could not stop, as l frantically put the stocks into the ice, l finally came to rest two thirds down, checking everything was there, and surprise surprise it was, l lifted and spead the rest straight down, the quicker l got off the better. l could feel the several dozen eyes watch me from the chair lift as l fell. I noted the slope was empty for some time afterwards. You may think me fool hardy, even suicidal, but it was a strange feeling, as if the hand of my brother pushing me over the edge, as he did so many years ago, making me fearful of black, and so l am often seen wearing colour.
Jayne is different she tackles the slopes in a mechanical, robotic manner, methodically doing turns down the slope, which can be annoying when you are behind her, as the turns are not even. But she gets there, though she has a few bruises from mishaps. The boys today got medals for some type of competition in their groups, Ewan l am proud to say came first, Hunty fifth, this is wonderful as Hunty normally always gets first, he did mention to me that he has lots of first awards at home for running, maybe speed skating is more for him, though the way he spins on the snow and ice, maybe it is ice dancing, he will be the first to do it to AC DC.
At the moment we are preparing for new years eve, we are staying here with Francesca and Dario and their son Dodo, there is enough food for thirty people, l did ask, as l find it difficult with many strangers, l am told it is only 10. Kim Foran who came to Bologna a couple of days before we came to Cortina, went off to Venice for the last 2 days, and is back at 6pm. Apparently they have got some bloke called Giorgio coming who is single and been whacked with the ugly stick till senseless, but l am told has a lovely personality, this meeting may give me some joy, as l know Kim. Kim has been a joy to have and is great with the boys, in particular Hunty who really likes being around her and Ewan shares his bunk room with her here.
Kim has just returned after a wonderful time in Venice, though she had to change hotels on the second night and got no sleep, she then was mis directed to the wrong train and ended up in the middle of no where with some buck toothed moronic 14 year old boy trying to take her iPad from her. She got away but somewhere in Italy is a town like Deliverance.
The winter tyres which l have mentioned before have proved to be a hugh success, the fact it is law to have them on, they allow me to tackle the corners well in the hills. The small negative is the slopes are all surrounding Cortina and you have to drive up to 40 minutes to each one, some are only 10 minutes. And so you need the confidence of tyres to grip the road as some idiot who most likely has a beast in the front seat, wanders across the road.
We were warned about the high costs of Cortina, but l must say l think it may be cheaper than Bologna, mind you as l have said before Bologna is very expensive. Though l am glad we went to Decathlon to buy all our ski clothing, helmets and goggles, as that place which is like a hugh Rebel is so good on price.
Visually Cortina is wonderful, rock peaks surround, with incredible formations, there is a colour in the rock that goes bright orange, much like the beasts faces in the morning as the rising sun hits certain peaks. I have been doing a few water colours of the peaks and snow scenes, much like the works l did from South Georgia and Whistler. I must say it is a joy to paint snow and the colours of snow, and the people skiing.
And so Cortina is well worth visiting, just to see the beasts, but if you just want to ski go to Whistler.

What do you mean there is no dolci

New Years Eve

Ewan with his friends

Hunter on the ventilator

Winter in Cortina

On top of the world

The perfect picture

Afternoon drinks

More "BEASTS"

 

A "BEAST"

 

The latest headwear in Innsbruck

 

At the summit

Times they are not a changin, here at least!

I read the Australian papers, l watch CNN and hear of the collapsing world, the end is nigh, ohhh lord why does thee forsake me stuff, and  then l walk out the door and all is as normal. Italians, or maybe Bolognese wont accept it , or maybe they don't watch CNN, who can blame them. Either way, they walk the streets with their shopping label bags of desire, they are in the bars chatting over a expresso and brioche, the osteria's are full, even the street beggers are not complaining. The weather has been unseasonally good, the streets are lined with wonderful christmas lights and decorations, maybe they listened to Gerard Harvey when he said if we all woke up the next morning and said what crisis and just acted as normal , it would be normal.
Next issue of thought, l went to my bank yesterday to transfer some funds back to Australia, as l am a bit nervous that some of the many banks here may come into some difficulty, and the staff member who does international transfers was not there, so a kind women had a go, then said "computer say no" best to come back tomorrow. So l came back today and the women who does the transfers was there, l explained what l wanted to do, then she said yes, would you like to do that now!, of course my mind said something sarcastic, but my mouth, said that would be great. And that is Italy now, then and always, there is always tomorrow to pay off the national debt, the national bonds are at record highs, but maybe they wont be tomorrow.!
Now there are so many great things about Italy, and l rarely like to complain, as l am a guest and this is Italy, but it is true the Romans gave us roads, aquaducts, and syphillis, but what they did not give and have no idea about is supermarkets. Now we mainly shop at the local speciality stores, but occasionally we do the big shop for toilet paper, toothpaste, and a million other things you didn't know you needed. And the problem l have is the aisles are too thin, there seems to be no rhyme or reason to where things are put, people happily chat away in the middle of the isle oblivious to you wanting to get past, the check out areas are too small, and the area where the food pass's to be packed by yourself is tiny, and the check out chick is way too fast, so the food piles up, and always the bread and avocado is on the bottom, even when l put them on last. So l go into a panic and go as quick as l can to fill my eco bags, but there is just not enough room, the food keeps piling up, in fact l think there are foods we have not even purchased thrown in by some evil doer just to keep me mad. Then comes the bill, no matter what it is you end up with lots of coins, mainly copper, they still have 1,2,5 cent coins, why?
That said, life is wonderful here and l agree with most other forms of shopping.
I turn 49 tomorrow, and today l am dressed as Woody from Toy Story, make what you will with that.
Just found out we have to purchase "winter tyres" something new for me, apparently winter can be rather slippery and snow, now l hope it is not just over kill, but we are getting some Bridgestone Blizzards, which sound great, but l fear too much went into the marketing of these tyres as the price is rather high. We are off to Cortina ( a name that says wonderful snow, views and skiing, but also an average popular car) in our Honda, with BLIZZARD tyres which l am sure we will need there. So this christmas will be white, we are staying in an apartment in the town, sharing it with some lovely Italian friends we have made here.
Hunter has a friend who made 200 euro doing some photos for Armani Kids, he now is very keen to do some modeling, and every day asks if we can go there so he can do it and get the money. He has also instructed me to put the money in a bank account. On the other side, Ewan is carrying around right now a soft santa that plays "you better watch out, santa claus is coming to town" and asking do you think he will get as many presents as last year. He is not asking me to place his money in a bank account, as he spends it too quickly.
Jayne bought some very expensive looking boots yesterday, put them on and asked me what l thought, l liked them ,but worried about the cost, she said she got them for 40 euro, l love them now!
Tonight we had another great meal by Jayne, rabbit ragu, so here we are eating fine rabbit, while back home l have given instructions to put out bait to kill them at Teneriffe.
I found a  new studio finally, Via Remorsella, 13a, it used to be a doctors room, it has a small reception area with windows to the road on two sides, so good light, l will use this more for display and doing small works, then through a door to a larger room, but not large where l will paint. In the back there is a toilet, and large wash basin, this area also has natural light, and  electric security cage over the windows. It is a few minutes walk from the house, all under cover, quite street, so l should not have too many people peering in the windows. Looking forward to getting back into a studio, doing the small works on cardboard has been good, and l am sure will lead into bigger and better things. I love cardboard, l have become quite the connoisseur about the qualities and texture, and can often be seen going through the bins of Bologna.

Bologna, bellissimo

Bologna, the city that keeps on giving. Well the christmas decorations are starting to spring up, thank fully no silly old santas in the windows, but some shops have put some incredible effort in their displays, like the Myer windows but on a smaller level. But what really has been extravagant is the chocolate fair that has come to Piazza Maggiore , 70 stands, selling, displaying the best chocolate and most amazing ideas. There is chocolate in all sorts of shapes, forms and styles, there is chocolate as a large spinning lamb kebab, that they carve of slices of chocolate. Chocolate in the form of salami, bread rolls, parmesan cheese, every possible character, mobile phones, cameras, rusty old tool from long forgotten sheds. On the fashion side, shoes formed into stilettos, handbags, runners, shirt and ties. There are so many variations of hot chocolate , white, dark, milk, hazelnut, nutella and hybrids. There of course is the small delicate pieces that nanna likes to get for christmas, and willy wonker wrapped blocks. The question is where to start and when to stop, neither l have done well, who thought l could have spent 35 euro at one stand for myself. The fair has gone for 4 days, and happens every year, great for christmas presents.
The temperature has now dropped down to 10 - 12 during the days, but often with sunshine, and down to 0-3 during the night, but the streets are still full of people in their puffy jackets, l'd love a dime for every puffy jacket, I'm sure they have a better name for it as that does not sound so cool.
Now yesterday we all went on the train to Florence, nice city!
The Duomo really could use a clean, the amount of dark mould or acid rain effect was very disappointing, and i've seen better interiors. The Uffizi was something else, besides no cue to get in and finally able to use our residence cards to get cheaper tickets, made me look at the poor tourists paying the 4 euros more in  a way that felt good. The art is famous, and there was no disappointment, l especially liked Botticelli pictures, particularly Spring, there was a El Greco, which speaks for itself and a few Caravaggio's. There were two Venetian painters , Jacapo Zucchi and Jacapo Chimenti who l found interesting and the Tintoretto portraits. I picked up a book by Georgio Vasari, about the lives of artists of the time, he himself was an artist and friend of the Medici's. Of course there is all the sculptures and the views along the river and on to Ponte Vecchio, so that made it a very good day for me.
My main interest in going to Florence was to see Cellini's  "Perseus" in the Loggia della Signoria, it did not let me down, surrounded by other great works (Hercules and Nessus by Giambologna), it is an amazing porch! and should never be missed.
Maybe l am becoming a bit loyal to Bologna, but l found Florence so so, obviously except for the Uffizi. l missed the portico's, and it really is a tourist city, which is good in the manner that it is clean, but everyone speaks English, and though it is comfortable, it does not help to learn, and makes you feel you are at Disneyland.
It takes just over 30 minutes to get there from Bologna on the fast train, and cost us 132 euro for the family return.
Next time l want to visit the house of  Rodolfo  Siviero, a man who helped return many of the stolen artworks back from Germany to Italy, many of which are in the Uffici.
Tomorrow l see another possible studio, so fingers crossed, l have now set up a table in the entry of the house and painting on  horse scenes cardboard, its amazing how many horses you see in art, still have no interest in  riding them, and think you have to be crazy to want to have them, but they are great to paint, and you can always find some statue of a bloke on one in every city.

Villa Albergati, and other things

Jayne as usual found a most remarkable place called Villa Albergati on the internet, about 20 minutes out of Bologna, a rather ugly building on the outside, but amazing inside with its frescoes, and stairwells, anybody who was somebody stayed there, Voltaire, Napoleon, kings, queens etc. They have for 4 months of the year a fabulous feast on sundays, 35 euro for adults, 18 for kids, l have not eaten better anywhere.
There is a massive table in the dining room, covered in every type of food imaginable, in the old kitchen next door is another large table covered in every desert imaginable, and your job is to work your way through it all, going back an back with a fresh plate. There are several rooms , with about 200 people for lunch, and the food just keeps being replaced from the kitchen with new variations. After lunch we went on a tour of the villa, and later played soccer in the grounds, before collecting some firewood for a fire at home. The villa was saved by 12 investors who bought it from a man who lived in one of the rooms, having to sell of some of the land just to keep it. So before it was lost forever they stepped in and it is used for functions and conferences through out the year, as well as the sunday feasts. In its hey day it had land all the way to Modena and produced hugh amounts of wine that was exported to the USA, and vegetables locally and famous chocolate. We sat at table 13 which was good, as it was in a smaller room, right next to the food, and not as loud as the main dining room.
At the time we had Glenda and Claudio stay with us, Glenda taught us Italian back in Seymour for a  year or so before we came over . They had been traveling around Italy and Ireland, so we got a few more lessons, which can never hurt. Jayne is getting better by the day, l am at least watching some tv shows in Italian, and reading the headlines in the newspaper and looking at the pictures, just like at home with the Sun Herald.
Halloween is hugh here, which surprised me, l did not think the Italians would get involved in a retail propaganda stunt, but l guess the idea of dressing up and partying helps. The boys are off tonight to a halloween party at the school, Ewan is a ninja warrior and Hunter is dracula, hopefully memories of watching Nosferatu with me will come in handy.
Last night we went to the Saint Celilia church, where we have been many times and watched a young women (Chiara Cattani) play the harpsichord for an hour, she was brilliant, works by Handel, Scarlatti and a modern piece by D.Salvatore, La Follia. The boys came as well and were pretty good , considering we arrived 45 minutes early, as it was day light saving, obviously l missed this article in the newspaper!. So they sat for 1.45 , and though they were in a giggling fit at the beginning settled down very well, l did remind Jayne that not many kids would listen to someone playing a harpsichord for 10 minutes.
Tonight l see another studio space in Via Independenza, the one in Strada Maggoire fell through, the owner was worried about mysteries, my friend described him as a meteorological man. So fingers crossed, as l cant keep painting water colours for ever.
Bologna keeps impressing me, last week l discovered another major museum (Collezioni Comunali d'arte) that is located next to the Morandi museum, it is the local council collection, as is massive and set in the most stately rooms and space. One particular artist who shone for me was Pelagio Palagi, wonderful unfinished in appearance portraits, the faces are done but the bodies and often background is raw linen. There was also this perfect marble sculpture of a young boy and an eel, l will have to go back and see it again, and remember the artist name.
This museum along with Museo Civico Medievale, which is down next to Fava Museum are must sees.
On saturday night a strange thing happened we had our first non Italian meal, we went out to an Indian restaurant, and it may not have been in the league that we have in Melbourne, it was a welcome feeling to have something else besides pasta, pizza. The lassi drinks were great, Hunter in particular was a hugh fan, and it reminded us of Boost bars, which we miss. Anyone who wants to make some money should open one here, l am sure even though it is a coffee culture, they would do very well.
And so here l am, the weather is colder, much colder, Jayne has just got back from her gym session, looks like we are having xmas and new year in Cortina skiing, so all aint too bad! Qantas has grounded all its fleet, each day brings another jump or fall in the stock market, as we discover what Europe is doing or not. I just finished reading 1984, and realize things have not changed, but feel good that outside everyone is eating well, taking their time and living like human beings.
Now l must go, as the computer screen is reminding me of the telescreen in 1984, and l fear that l am being corrupted.
2 + 2 = 4.

Table of earthly delights, Villa Albergati

 

Glenda and Claudio , Villa Albergati

What every kitchen needs, a stuffed crocodile

One of the many ceilings

Recent events and thoughts

The latest thing to happen in my world, is l have had to move out of my studio, due to the person l sub-rented through having a disagreement with the owner, so we were given 10 days to move out, which was rather tricky with large thick oil paintings, that were far from dry. Obviously l was pissed, but maybe living in Italy has calmed me a bit, and the fact that the bureaucracy has taught me to be patient (piano, piano)
So a week later, and l may! be moving into a new one just a few minutes from the house, but the owner wanted to meet me first (am sub-renting again from the same guy, you think I'm mad?). He met me today, and the fact that language between us was held to hello, goodbye, l am told it went well. He is going to check out my website, god knows what that will make him think, and his son may ring me, who does speak english. So maybe by monday l will know, and maybe not.
The fact that l put in new lighting 3 weeks ago in the old studio, and had to buy a sink and bench unit for the old studio, is frustrating, but we may well end up getting them back this week, as in Italy everyone brings their own kitchen with them , when they move. These are not remarkable kitchens, often IKEA kitchens, and definitely on the small side.
The new studio , has good light, not great light, but a kitchen (not mine) and a bathroom, heating and wifi. Its only now l realize how good my old studio was, anyway, artists are meant to suffer, maybe this will improve my work!
The boys have been rather painful lately, and Jayne and l have taken to the old threatening no birthday party line, 30 days out. l think they smelt a rat quickly, and have no fear of that it seems now. Still they have had a big change, and school work has become more involved. On the positive side they are doing well in drama, probably due to the play acting they are doing with us regarding the birthday party, and have started calcio (soccer, football). They play a a typical park area, which are found around Bologna, all built l would say in the 70s, needing some restoration. The grounds are mainly dirt, except the main ground, their coach is around 65, 5 foot tall, smokes and yells at them like a russian, he recently had them doing push ups, because some kid was crying and said they upset him, so the whole team was penalized. I like him, he brings a bit of reality to the game. The italian kids are just like the professional players, they fall down alot, crab their ankles, or plead for frees. I am proud to say Ewan got a ball kicked into his balls, and Hunter was pushed over twice, both got up, smiled and got on with it, though Ewans smile may have been a bit forced. What they lack in skill they make up with determination, fitness. They play in their soccer-roo tops, soon with the thermal leggings, as it is starting to get rather nippy.
Jayne is hoping they will join the choir, which is well attended by students, though they miss two lunchtime plays a week, which is a big deal to them.
We finally got our residency, which we were told we were getting 3 months ago, the hold up was that some dickhead had spelt Ewans middle name as Duc, not Doc ( this of course could cause a national intelligence disaster) , they blamed us, we did mention that we felt we would know how to spell our own child's name, did not seem to interest them, so about 150 euro later it is done. We now spend another 20 euro, plus the cost of 3 photos from a photo booth each to get residency cards. On the photo stuff, we also need another 3 photos of the boys to join the calcio club. Who the hell needs so many photos, Berlusconi could solve the Italian debt with the money made from the photo booths, he probably is, its just so expensive with his legal fees.
You also have to have a doctors certificate every-time your child joins anything, luckily we photo copied the one and use that.
Our piazza is again alive and well this weekend, a cake theme prevails, Kitchen Aid has a tent, a cup cake tent, cake demonstrations etc, the place was busy busy busy. Last weekend was the monthly market, which is hugh, we looked at one picture to buy, when we spoke to the women and she gave the sell on it, she asked where we were from, and then said that she bought the picture in Sydney, it was of a Frenchman who worked there for awhile at the beginning of the 1900s, all quite weird, we didn't but it.
Bologna has many african immigrants wandering the streets selling socks, tissues, etc, got to know a few of them, and they are from Liberia, which you should google as it is very interesting place and history. Anyway, they are happy smiling people, so l am happy to give them some money when they ask, the strange thing is l am seeing them a bit too often now, l fear they are now living outside our front door to the palazzo. Like swooping magpies, the boys and l now leave to school with hats on our heads and ride fast.

Out at our favourite osteria

Mad hatters, Sal and Jayne

Sally Nance and girls at dinner with us

Somewhere to put my helmet

 

Roman centry

 

Roman helmet sale

Ewan with his creation

Hunter with masterpiece

 

Canals of Bologna

Strange as it may sound, but once Bologna was similar to Venice. Many many years ago a river ran through Bologna, from the hills to the south, the river was used for drinking, washing and industry (silk and tannery) In fact the river had several water mills along it for such industries. As the years passed, the river was slowly built over, by people needing more space, and finally the river disappeared, and all that was left were canals underground. In the hills above Bologna there is still the reservoir and aqua-duct, built by the Romans to control the quality and amount of water going to Bologna for washing and drinking, the head pressure was used to power the fountains. The water was collected from the many streams and under ground seams that held water. The canal now has been concreted on the ground, and pipes move sewerage and water along it, though in heavy rains the canals fill up to around a meter deep. When you walk along them, you see the original Roman bridge which is underneath the main intersection at the two towers, and Etruscan brick, stone work as well. And signs where someone tried digging up into the bottom of a major bank at Piazza Minghetti, reminds me of the Italian Job.
They have many tours of the canals, though not over winter, one which might be fun is held on Halloween.
Apparently you can still see on some buildings metal hooks where boats would tie up to, its probably better covered, as it would be otherwise a visual river full of cigarette butts and dog shit.
We did this tour with about 15 people, and it was done by a new friend Massimo Martelli (Max), who is a loyal local, a art historian and professional guide, and knows everything about this wonderful city.

Bologna alive and well

Well the last weekend was busy busy busy in Bologna, it was like a boxing day sale, apparently there was a fair on and everyone came into town. The piazzas were alive as well, in Santo Stefano there was a promotion on sports, table tennis tables, soccer games, basketball (Bolognas big sport) rugby, orienteering, and of course the old favorite middle age fencing, sorry too confuse you, not middle age fencing, but Medieval sword fighting, as the swords are rather large and clumsy as compared to today, hence the fact you don't see it that much anymore, well not at the Olympics. The boys had a great time shooting baskets, and collected two rugby balls, which add to the aussie rule ball's, soccer ball's and tennis ball's.
Then over at Piazza Maggiore was an astonishing presentation and spectacular Roman army village, set up with tents, kitchen, shield and spear making, a physician tent and musical instrument demonstration. There was about 40 people involved, all in authentic uniforms, and they put on demonstrations of battle practice and  a shield scrum, that the Wallabies need to look at!
And like Arezzo, Italians look perfectly at ease in this gear, they have not changed at all in hundreds of years, there was only one weedy looking bloke, and he was on the catapult display. The armour was so well put together, it must have come from Gladiator the movie, but these bloke spoke italian.
I was so inspired l went out and bought Spartacus and Gladiator, and also came home with Young Frankenstein, the movie, just to bring a bit of balance to my tv viewing.
Without spoiling the surprise too much, a great deal of my painting has to do with this gladiator/ roman business, but l'll wait till they are well along before showing these pictures. Sadly for me l have the physique of a flag thrower in Arezzo, rather than a Roman centurion.
The boys have started with their tennis lessons, as well as learning some more Italian words, in particular, base line, serve, collect the balls, volley, the scores, racket and of course capisci!
Our friend Elisabeth had her bike stolen, they did not break the lock (titanium) but they actually lifted it up and over the 8 foot pole it was attached to, l wonder what people may have thought when they saw that happening, and having to carry it off to an angle grinder. It had a baby seat on the back, which l thought may have been in the thieving code of conduct a not to steal rule, obviously not!

Hunter with his coach

Ewan at calcio, in socceroo outfit

 

A bloke who was waiting for his residency

 

Our new barbaque, 110 cm long, 15cm wide