Dowd adventures in Bologna: aprile 2012

martedì 17 aprile 2012

Roma e Napoli

Finally we have all made it down to Roma and Napoli. the train is only 2.5 hours to Roma, the hotel we booked used very good photography to express what was not there. Thankfully Jayne went to reception and complained and the next day we were moved to an apartment on the top floor(5) with two large patio areas, with views over the area. The first day we visited the Colosseum and forum area, rather long line to get in, but l guess it was worth it, though the Colosseum does have a sense of hollywood, with so many tourists and a gift shop. But you are impressed by the fact that it is still standing, and it is huge, quite remarkable, and to think nothing has changed in 2000 years, as l can't help compare Telstra Stadium or whatever it is called now with it, though l feel the food would have been better 2000 years ago. There is the same box seating areas, the nose bleeding section, the shop areas to buy food or trinklets, and the same entry and exit system which works so well, and though they didn't have the covered roof, they did have a sail system to give some shade. But the obvious difference is the condition of the playing surface, much better even now at the Colosseum. As we left there, the sky turned very dark, and the wind picked up, my natural meteorological instincts took hold, l new something was about to happen, so we made quickly for a cafe, and just in the nick of time, as those who took no notice scattered about buying 2 euro collapsable umbrellas from the street vendors, and when l say collapsable, l mean they just collapse when you try to open them. 1 hour later when the weather cleared, all the bins in the area were spouting collapsed umbrellas. That night we all rather tired so decided to eat at a local Irish Pub, terrific decision , as there were tvs nearly at every table areas, the service was friendly and the food tasty, and not pasta.
Day 2, which was easter monday, a holiday, and a day when most galleries are closed took some thinking of what to do, but we found more than enough to keep us busy. Went for a 4 wheeled bike ride around Borghese gardens, which was alot of fun, and Jayne just like when l drive a car, was quickly telling me to watch out for the people in yellow coats and spinning windmills on their heads. We visited Piazza Navona to see a Bernini fountain sculpture, and two other excellent ones, it was a favorite of mine, and was full of a market of artists and their terrible paintings, which gave me great confidence. Later we went to Francesco church to see three brilliant, and l mean brilliant Caravaggio's, the great thing was that it was not busy and we were able to spend plenty of time looking without a crowd. And then the Pantheon, which defies belief that humans built it, and that it is still standing. The design, 43 meters in diameter, and a 9 meter hole, was copied exactly for centuries, as no one understood how else to do it, it really is quite amazing, and
like the Tardus, looks plain on the outside, and remarkable and bigger inside. A visit to Popolo Church to see two other great Caravaggio's of the man with the horse over him, the other was Saul on the cross, the upside down character, this was also not busy which was a real treat.
Day 3, we had a tour with only two other people around Medici Palazzo, the tour was very good, and the garden area is quite impressive, but what is most impressive is the fact that the French government, allow artists to apply from all around the world to attend there for 2 years and work on their personal projects, the only condition is that you speak French. The fact l cant speak Italian very well, makes it rather hard to pass in French, but the studios are terrific, and the atmosphere is very inspirational. The palazzo is situated at the top area of the Spanish steps, which is one of the Roma hills, with breathtaking views over Roma, of which l took many photos, and some quick sketches. The spanish steps is a complete waste of time, as they are covered in all types , eating and meeting. If it was not for a movie like the Trevi fountain, they would be no more important than any other steps or fountains.
We then headed off to the Vatican, along with several large buses, and many nuns and priests. It did feel like entering a theme park, but we never saw Mickey Mouse and his colleagues. Jayne had booked tickets for 3pm to enter the museum and the Sistine chapel, the museum was obviously amazing, and they move you along very efficiently , just like a theme park. The room of maps was incredible, and we found the fresco map of the Bologna area, which was fun, this room l really liked. Other rooms had statues of animals, ex popes, religious poses etc. Of course there was a Bernini, and a Caravaggio, so that impressed. You can't help be impressed, such wealth, such art, if the Catholics gave us anything, they got some great art, its how they got it that makes you wonder. The Sistine chapel is a bit like a cattle yard, and sounds like one, until the attendant every few minutes yells out silencio!!, which seems to not be quite right in a chapel. The fact that there are signs reminding everyone that it is a place of worship, and not to take photos, everyone is chatting away and snapping and flashing. Even with all that , how the hell he painted that by himself on his back, with bad light and so close up, is a mystery. The Sistine chapel proves that Michaelangelo was a absolute brilliant painter, and a good sculptor, as Bernini and Cellini proved they were better at sculpture. We did the usual tourist thing and sent a post card to Aunty Barb, back in Ballarat, but it seemed the right thing to do, after all she is a nun. That night we caught up with Georginia, (PEA) Coy and her Italian husband Frederico for dinner at their house in the perfect Farnese piazza. Though it was quick, it was great to see Pea and Fred, and we hope to see her and the kids soon in Bologna. It is always good to have a laugh with another Australian, especially when that Australian lives in Italy.
Last day in Roma, we had booked tickets at 9am to go to the Borghese Museum, this was one of the best experiences l had in Roma, and in fact in Italy. The Bernini sculptures l saw changed my view on everything, l honestly think he is the greatest artist ever, and sadly did not know much about him before, that along with a few Caravaggios made this place a absolute must to go to. Unfortunately they keep you to 2 hours, and l needed more time, so l will return just to stand in-front of Bernini's works and wonder.
And so we then left Roma by train to Napoli, and as quickly as we travelled from Roma, the scene changed, and the weather got worse, it rained nearly all the time in our four days there.
The hotel in Napoli on first impressions was not bad, the main room was as big as a squash court, the only problem was the bathroom was the size of a tennis court, with only a small shower, basin, toilet and bidet, what we were meant to do with the rest of the room was a mystery. I don't know exactly where Spartacus was, but the room was very spartan, along with the breakfast, which is always a shame, as you like to load up of food in the morning to keep you going till dinner when you travel l find. Anyway the location was good, though we had a small goat track of a footpath littered in dog shit to traverse to get to the transport or shops. They did have a restaurant, managed by others, and if you like gnocchi, a spartan dining area, a waiter cum chef, dish cleaner, who has a side kick who wanders from the bar into the kitchen with a glass of wine constantly, without ever thinking that the guests might like a drink, then this is the place to go. We went once, at least the desert was not gnocchi tart, mind you it might have been better than the lemon tart he tried to pass off.
The first full day in Napoli was sunny so we headed off to Ercolano, which is near Herculaneum, the town like Pompeii that was lost in Vesuvius. Getting there was a wonderful experience, first we caught a funiculare? which is basically a tram pully to go up steep slopes like in Hong Kong. We then caught the local train to the main station. It is there we met Remo Pessolano, a local policeman who was only too happy to help direct us to the right train. Now l had done some homework in getting there, and they warned on the web, to catch the train to Sorrento, otherwise it is difficult as you need to catch a bus and walk with no signs if you caught the other train. He put us along with himself on the other one. Happily taking us in the train to some seats, he smiled and said hello to everyone, as they all seem to know him. We arrived at a stop, he said this is it, jumped off quickly running into the office to tell them to help get us on the bus, and just as quickly jumping back on the train and waving goodbye. ( as a by note, he wanted to get my website and email address, and we now keep in contact) As it happened in the office was a local and his daughter who took us to the bus stop, which was 400 meters away, it also happened that his wife was English, and they spoke some English. So they then instructed the bloke in the shed in a deserted parking area to put us on the bus to Ercolano, which he did, and instructed the driver to put us off at the right stop, 15 minutes later after driving through the most honest looking towns, and people that reminded us more of the Italians in Australia, we were told this is your stop, up there on the left , turn and walk 200 meters, as so we did and arrived happily at Herculaneum, where we were met by a lovely gentleman who for 50 euro took us on a 1.5 hour tour, which was well worth it. The reason for Herculaneum over Pompeii , is that it is smaller and just as good or better, there is still plenty to see, but all the main stuff was taken and housed in the museum in Napoli which we visited later. After the tour he told us the best pizza place to go to in town, the sun was shining, we ate wonderful pizza, but it was the days experience that made it taste even better. We arrived home safe and sound, and it was one of the greatest days we have had in Italy.
The next day it rained and rained, and like Roma the bins were full of collapsable umbrellas. The Americas Cup was being held at the time in Napoli, but due to the rain, no one was attending the festivities, which were washed out anyway, but the Americas Cup is not what it was when Bondy was about.
Day 3, we went to Palazzo Capodimonte, to see a impressively lit and painted Caravaggio, and while there bumped in to Dario, our friend from Bologna, who was born in Napoli, and had given us all the advice on what to see, After talking about it to us, he got home sick, and quickly decided to visit. Later that night we caught up with him for dinner. But that afternoon, with the weather getting worse we decided to go on one of the bus hop and go tours, at least it was dry, but with the rain on the windows, and with the windows fogging up, it was left to listen to the headset, and imagine. We also visited Palazzo Reale, which was really good!!
Day 4, Dario had offered to take us out to Reggio di Caserta, the royal palace of times past, now this palace and gardens is what Versailles was based on, and Versailles comes out second. Sadly again, the rain ruined much of the day, but by the photos in the gift shop books, the gardens and waterfalls are amazing. The rooms are hugh and perfectly painted ceilings, and decorated with Venetian glass chandeliers. Everything was hugh, and quite spectacular, the only thing you are reminded of was the lack of toilets in those days, and the shitty job of emptying them. Sadly because of the rain we did not see the gardens, but it was quite an adventure, and is about 30 minutes out of Napoli.
Napoli in general reminded me of Buono Aires in Argentina, grand buildings in disrepair, the streets are littered in rubbish and dog shit, there seems to be odd people hanging out everywhere, which keeps you on your toes, and everyone seems to try to be ripping you off, which made the experience a bit awkward. On the other side, the town is alive and very friendly and helpful, everyone is in slow mode, and there seems to be no hurry. Luckily with the bad weather the streets were reasonable quiet, so l would hate to be there when it was busy. We might get back to Napoli, but we will be back to Roma a couple of times first.
The next day we got up and it was till raining a bit, but the sun was tempting it self, but we had had enough of traveling so headed out to the train station and got onto an earlier train, 3.5 hours later we arrived home, happy to be back, but with one hell of a great adventure over the easter break.

lunedì 16 aprile 2012

Art in Ferrara

Recently we went on a trip for the day to a brilliant town gallery in Ferrara, about 40 minutes from Bologna. their was an exhibition of a Spanish artist called Joanuin Sorella 1863-1923. He was a impressionist style painter, who did some wonderful plein air style paintings of gardens in particular, fountains and landscapes near Sierra Nevada. His work has a terrific freshness and immediacy about it. It is always pleasant to discover an artist that the world does not really know but has obvious talent. We went there with Antonio, the great Itatian artist and teacher to the boys, and one of his sons, as well as Marcus and Rosella and their children Sofia and Luca. Ferrara is a very beautiful town, and interestingly the old main street that runs into the castle is designed in such a way that all the buildings get shorter as you go furthur from the castle, adding to the perspective. The castle is hugh and surrounded by a moat, and there is always a market of sorts on in the town centre, It is really a town where bikes have the right of way, and cars are not seen that much. You can hire bikes if you come by train, and the town has many galleries and museums to visit, and is flat. It also has a famous hat shop that Sofia and l bought hats from.

The boys

The boys have been busy and active as usual, calcio (soccer) started back, they go to practice 2 times a week, and just recently the weekend games began. I have mentioned their coach a small, smoking most animated oldish man, who has a good heart, nothing to do with his smoking though. They had a game a week ago, the opposition was more like 12 - 14 years old, the boys just looked and stared back at me, and said their huge dad, my only comment was , they are, even the coach was smaller than them. My best advice to the boys was go out and play like its aussie rules, get in there and play hard, and keep running. l tend to give them some inspiration and advice, as they don't always understand the coach, and he often is yelling at Hunter, calling him Ewan, and visa versa. this is rather confusing when he wants one to attack, and one to defend. Anyway the match ended up 1 - 6, but they played well, and Hunters speed saved a couple more goals, and Ewan is quite the tackler and goal sneak, one just missed the goals.
Their week nights are busy with calcio on Monday, Wed, sometimes Friday, drama on Tuesday, Ewan has piano on wed, they have a small lesson in Italian with a teacher on thursday, and on Fridays they often have an art lesson with Antonio. I was asked by one of the parents why do you send your kids to an art lesson, you are an artist, l explained l have no patience, and they dont listen to me.
Their ltalian is improving dramatically now, Even Hunter is talking in it, but he is best with his waving of the hands, and going dai dai!!! Ewan seems to understand very well, and often talks back to people in the street if they are rude.
Ewan recently was sent home from school by the headmaster after throwing a foam ball at her. He was playing with Hunter and another boy Luca at playtime and the headmaster felt it was unsafe, and told them to stop it, and to play catch instead, so Ewan threw the ball at her in fun, but alas the headmaster did not see it that way, and the concern that other parents and kids watching may also end up throwing balls at her, she quickly sent Ewan to her room and rang me. When l got there and heard the story, l nearly laughed and patted him on the back, but luckily l remembered l was a parent and kept a straight face, and took him home, he was very apologetic and sorry, and felt very embarrassed for him.
A week later Hunter was told to write an apology letter to a teacher for mis-behaving on a field trip, apparently he was not listening to the guide, when l asked him about it he said , he didn't understand him because he spoke in Italian, and wanted to look at the pictures in the art show instead, again l found it hard to wonder what he did wrong, but l am their parent!
Hunter has taken to biting his finger nails, and no amount of weird nail polish that is supposed to stop that has helped, he says his hungry, we are increasing his portions at meals.
Hunty asked me a few days ago , at what age to you have to stop holding hands, l said you never have to stop if you don't want to, he smiled and said good, because l always want to hold your hand dad.
Ewan is still getting emotional, when he sees people begging in the street, or when l new kid comes to school and is teased, he really is a saint, though l have my suspicions that he is wiser than we believe, and he knows that when Hunter is misbehaving, which is generally always, he acts more saintly.

Lucio Dalla. March 4th 1943 - March 1st 2012

Last month a most famous and talented singer, songwriter, musician and actor died. I had not heard of him before, but seen him occasionally in the street, as he lived near my old studio. The town of Bologna, infact the country of Italy went into mourning, it is something l found quite moving, possibly like Jim Stynes death. There was over 30,000 people at his funeral, and they had his casket just off the main piazza here over the weekend do people could pass by it, the line stretched for thousands, people going throughout the night, just to say goodbye. All the shop windows had photos or paintings of him in their windows, the words "ciao Lucio" were hanging from the piazza and other windows. there was a mountain of flowers and messages outside his apartment, every age seemed to be touched by him.