The Dowds in Bologna

The Dowds in Bologna

A time past in Arezzo

A time past in Arezzo

The 8 Gang

The 8 Gang

Family at San Cesario de Lecce

Family at San Cesario de Lecce

venerdì 16 agosto 2013

Copenhagen, and thoughts by the kids

Forgot to mention we went to The Blue Planet, which l first thought when Gitte mentioned it, that it was some sort of night club, but in fact it is the recently opened aquarium in Copenhagen. A brand new architectural "look at me building" that did not work. The aquarium is settled alongside the sea in a semi industrial area, and only opened two months ago. there are some teasing problems, some of the animals have not arrived, and the seal enclosure is closed, its hard to get your way around, and there don't seem to be any staff. Compared to the one Hunter and l went to in Lisbon, it is nothing, but that one to me would be a world class one. Still the boys enjoyed looking at the stingrays and sharks, and the odd groper. One interesting site was a man in a wetsuit walking up to the dining area from outside with a speargun and a large fish on it. At first l thought , ohh how clever and interesting way to show the customers the fish is fresh. But no he just went in to get a carton of milk, and then slowly walked through the museum, stopping to ask questions every 5 meters, thankfully it was a large carton of milk. I then thought ohh no this is a clever thing the museum does to create interest in the museum, but no l think it was a solo show, and the fish is for feeding to the sharks!
Hunter commented when we were training through Sweden that all the houses looked like pictures kids do! Which l thought was right on the money. He then later said while in Copenhagen that a-lot of the people looked weird, as we saw lots of punks, drunks, Goth's and modern day creatures.
A trip to Christiania , an area that was once a military base, and was evacuated in the seventies. Soon after people began moving in to some of the buildings and living there, and for many many years the water and electricity was supplied for free. After awhile people then began building their own original style of housing, obviously without building codes. And there is a famous alley, known as hash alley, that vendors set up small tables with hash, dope etc, under umbrellas, and sell it , in full view of passing police meter's away. But there l believe was a sensible decision to leave them alone, better to know where they are! And so anyone can go in, and buy hash etc, but there are no hard drugs, it is something even the people of Christiania want to stop. There is a sort of community council that runs the place, and you cant just go in and build now, you need to get permission, and you also pay rent and utilities. The area has a central park and walk area, and anybody can enter, though it is forbidden to take photos in hash alley. They have their own used hardware store, supermarket, more bio and natural than most, bars, cafes, etc. There is a famous Christiania bike that is higher than most and is very expensive, which is interesting as everyone seems to have one there. Apparently there are people who have been living there for 20,30 years who work in the city in offices, but just like the lifestyle of Christiania.
When we took the boys there, especially down hash alley, they became very anxious about the shady characters. Ewan was very upset, as he said , but dad they are breaking the law, and drugs are bad why don't they get arrested and go to jail? Hard to answer that, but l explained it was better to keep them in one place, and these drugs where not the worst kind.
Thankfully we found a playground with a flying fox, and all was forgotten.
This place is a large tourist attraction, more for the student groups, but still it is important, and though many governments say they are going to clean it up, they all in the end realize its best to leave it, and let it grow the way it has. It is an interesting experiment in how governments have let people do what they want , and they have set up a village style community that works, and makes money. Of course the land they live on is nearly in the center of Copenhagen, and so is very valuable, especially when you see some houses looking out over the lake.
Now we did not visit the little mermaid, or walk along the canals, visit Mary in the castle, or climb the round tower, but the boys loved it so much and are desperate to return it is good we have left something else besides a revisit to Tivoli for next time. And though their transport system is very good, they have just started building a metro line around the center that will be finished in 8 years, which will dramatically improve the transport. That said you could imagine it becoming a car-less city then, as most Danes ride bikes, it is a great site, helmets are not compulsory, and there is racks everywhere. They have great bike locks on the back wheel, that should be on every bike all over the world, though in Italy they just steal the whole bike. You can hire bikes, as in Melbourne, but no helmet is required, which makes sense as most people are tourists, and it seems to me that tourists don't carry bike helmets. The other positive thing is all the Danes look great, long legs, blond hair, olive skin, it has to have something to do with riding a bike. You can see the viking in them, nothing better than a six foot stunning blonde girl riding by on a bike and smiling at you. I love the place!!!

Hunter trying a fish he caught that was salted

Hunter trying a fish he caught that was salted

River crossing, Sweden

River crossing, Sweden

Hunty, motorcycle madman

Hunty, motorcycle madman

Last train home

Last train home

LEGO wall, Louisiana

LEGO wall, Louisiana

Boys and their DUCATI

Boys and their DUCATI

playing with art at Louisiana

playing with art at Louisiana

On the deck! at the mill

On the deck! at the mill

The Demon, with Hunty aboard

The Demon, with Hunty aboard

One of the rides at Tivoli

One of the rides at Tivoli

The boys digging for worms

The boys digging for worms 

Hunter fishing

Hunter fishing 

Gitte and the boys at the lake

Gitte and the boys at the lake

Gitte's project

Gitte's project

The mill

The mill 

mercoledì 14 agosto 2013

Summer holidays, Sweden, Copenhagen

The boys and l flew up to Copenhagen, then caught a train to Karlskroner in Sweden, to spend a few days with our friend Gitte at her holiday mill in early August. Jayne had to go back to Australia, as her sister was ill, and also to see her aging parents.
So the trip started well, there was no issue with the larger than normal carry on luggage, they take it from you as you board the SAS flight, as the plane is small and it all goes into a special locker. The service was lovely, in fact all service in Scandinavia is lovely. We arrived, the airport at Copenhagen is excellent, and you can easily get on the connecting trains to central, but in our case we were going across the large bridge that connects it to Sweden. the train trip started well, you get free wifi on the train, which is something that should happen on every train in the world. But shortly after leaving we were told we would have to get off soon, and catch a bus for one stop, as there was some work on the track, .We would then resume our travels on another train. So we did this, got on the next train and plugged our phone and ishuffle into the charge outlets near our seats ( something else all trains should have) and travelled on. Well then the train slowed down, stopped , took of, slowed down, took off, etc etc. Then we were told to move to the front carriages of the train, as it was going to split. We did this, but the shuffling along continued, meanwhile l am texting, emailing Gitte and telling her which stations we are passing. The three hour trip took 5 hours in total. The reason being apparently was an incident with a bird, and the week before Gitte's friend was delayed with a incident with a cow. And just to add to this, a week later when we were traveling to a museum (Louisiana) north of Copenhagen, the train was delayed again, because of an incident with a person!!
So we arrived finally, after catching the last few stops on a bus, in all the hustle and bustle, sadly l left my ishuffle and charger in the train, and after living in Italy for so long you become used to the fact that it would be stolen straight away. I was told later, not in Scandinavia, they are honest there, and someone most likely turned it in. So if you are even around Karlskroner, go into the train office as ask if they have a red ishuffle and charger!
Well the old mill where Gitte has her holiday house, was absolutely terrific, the boys had the best time ever. Thankfully Jayne did not come, as it is rather rough living, and in the middle of restoration, so there are health hazards everywhere, but somehow the boys realized that it was not a good idea to fall over the edge of the building where there was no wall or fencing. The toilet is a wooden lean-too, with a hole in a piece of wood, that drops down over some rocks with gaps in. The kitchen is simple by any stretch of the imagination, but somehow Gitte was able to prepare amazing meals for us.
The boys spent most of the time, fishing in the river, crossing the river to the forrest on the other side, building a motorbike out of wood, burning of scrap wood on a campfire, that we used to cook on, and collecting worms to fish with.
I did not really pack accordingly, but we survived, and we left Bologna in 38 degrees, to a 23 degree Sweden, with rain. We bathed in the near by lake every day, as there was no shower, the lake is like a picture from a book. It also had a toilet, but we never took advantage of it.
Gitte had built an art project in the near by town, which is like Longwood, in fact it makes out old town look big, as there was no pub or general shop, just a hardware store, that really was not a hardware store. But there was a bus stop, and this is where Gitte had produced a herb garden with editable biological plants, and a wooden structure that looked a bit like a small house that could be carried away, it was infact an open structure that you could prepare food on, and cook on, as it had a gas bottle and cooker attached, and a sink with water container above. So we went down and picked from the garden all sorts of lettuce, flowers and herbs and made vietnamese rolls with rice wrap. Cooked some meat on the cooker and washed up in the sink, while waiting for a bus that comes twice a day!!
This project works very well in showing people what they can grow and eat for themselves, as well as bringing the community together, of course ideas like this seem foreign to most people, as they think its easier to drive to the supermarket and spend money, and create pollution, brava Gitte!!
Sweden is a beautiful place, especially where we were, it was a picture everywhere. Everyone was friendly, thought there is a feeling of american style industrial shopping areas popping up. And the trains seems to attract animals to commit suicide!
After a few days we left back to Copenhagen by train rather nervously, but it went without a hitch, except that at Karlskroner we were told to catch a bus a few stops to get the train. The driver told us he was going to try to get there in time, otherwise he would drive us an hour further to get it there. Meanwhile he chatted away to some people, and then when he drove, held his hand over his eyes, as he could not see well into the bright sun. For some reason he had no sunglasses, or visor. So we arrived in Copenhagen that early evening, and checked into the Ascot Hotel , near Trivoli. The hotel was fine, its expensive, but so is Denmark, the position was great, and the apartment was large and on the 6th floor. The breakfast was good, and you had free wifi everywhere.
The next day we got to the entrance of Tivoli at 10.30, opening time is 11am, and were one of the first in. We went on rides all day, played games, dodgem cars, lunch, saw music, a pantomime. Hunter is by far the bravest, and continually made me go on rides that my mind said don't, Ewan did not go on many of these. Finally Hunter wanted to go on the Demon, a red wriggling, turning rotating high track that went ridiculously fast. He went by himself, and had a great time, making friends with the three kids who sat with him. As the day went on, Ewan got braver, finally going on a ride with Hunty and me that tips you upside down, 20 meters above the ground then drops and turns you around while spinning in circles. One ride we went on about 20 times, you buy an all day unlimited ticket, which is well worth it, and a must.
The boys won lots of points on the games, like basket ball, hitting a gofer, knocking down tins, etc, and ended up using them to get two stuffed animals and a pack of playing cards. We ended up going for dinner at Peder Oxe, which is a restaurant l went to over 20 years ago, and loved it, and its still going strong. You have lamps above your tables which have a switch on that you turn on when you want service, the salad bar is superb, and the food perfect. After dinner we went back to the Tivoli, until closing at 11pm, in the end we spent 9 hours at Tivoli, and were exhausted, but happy.
The following day we spent walking around, looking at the lego shop, and all other kids shops, with me trying to show them the sites, the weather was cool and rainy but we did not get that wet as we spent alot of time in shops.
That night we had dinner with Gitte at Madklubben which was also great, packed on a monday night, seating about 200 people or more. The food in Copenhagen is excellent, and it makes you realize how much you miss out of in Italy, though it is always good in Italy, it is only Italian. And  the service in the shops and cafes and on the street is remarkable, l cant say enough about the service in Copenhagen. You can see why it is a growing city, and why you would want to live there, it is just expensive. But compared to Melbourne, it is better for my mind, much more artistic, restaurants are similar l suppose, but the service is excellent as l say in Denmark, and the ocean bay is a bit more than Port Philip. They also speak english very well, which is not the same in melbourne!
The next day we caught a train to Louisiana, one of the best art museums in the world, it lies about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. It has a huge collection of Giacometti works, and an impressive sculpture garden, as well as a collection of American 50's,60's artists, and Danish artists. It looks out over to Sweden which l think is cool, and is a relaxing place to spend the day, children up to 18 are free, well done!
That night we had dinner at Gitte's house, which is much more glamourous than the mill in living standards. We had dinner with David a friend from London, who the boys loved and as terrific fun, and Louisa who is a near by neighbor who l had met, 20 years earlier. Again a great meal, and strangely a train trip back to the hotel without any occurrence.
The next morning we left early and got back to thankfully a cool Bologna, and l must say better coffee, and ice cream. I must say, though Jayne was not with us this was one of the best trips we have had, the boys really enjoyed getting back to nature in Sweden, and the Tivoli is just what they needed on their holiday, and for me catching up with my old friend Gitte and visiting Louisiana and Peder Oxe again was terrific.

Venice, print studio

Back in July l spent 10 days working at Scuola Grafica in Venice, a print studio, run by Lorenzo and family. It was a great experience, the studio is a 10 minutes walk from the train station, and they supply accommodation over near Campo Santo Stefano, near Academia vaparetto.
I went there to do an edition series of woodcuts l had cut in Bologna in the last 9 months. One work is 52 individual plates, and there was another 15 plates. So l spent a hot week printing like mad. After organizing to have a particular paper and ink ready for me there, l found out they had not arrived. I ended up getting  good paper, but l had to scrounge around for various inks that were not exactly what l wanted. The first was rather dry and flat, and this actually worked quite well, though it dried very fast, too fast sometimes.
Finally after a few days my inks arrived and l was able to work in a happier moment. In the end l printed about 350 sheets, but found some small time to visit the exhibitions that were on during the biennale. The accommodation was rather rough, but it suited me fine, l slept in an apartment with 3 other artists ( l use the word loosely) two from Ireland, one taught art, but did not seem interested in doing it in the first few days, the other was a excellent viola player!, the third was an australian girl who had no desire to do art, but l think found a way to get cheap accommodation) Anyway they were all very nice and the apartment had a shared kitchen and two bathrooms, that one did not seem to have hot water, mind you you did not need it, and the other flooded when you had a shower, leaving the hand towel that was the bath mat soaked continuously.
Often l'd get back from the studio around 7-8pm and sit out the front of the apartment in the campo (square) and have a beer. One evening a bloke comes up to me wanting directions, he is Australian , so l try to pretend that l can speak english and give him directions, until falling apart and confessing, i'm australian, but l do have an idea where he wants to go.
The studio has a great gallery, and so l was able to hang the work of 52 pieces up and get a chance to see it in its fullness, as it goes to an exhibition in Wangaratta in October.
Using the studio when l did, Lorenzo told me was a disappointing time, as all the artists attending where really sunday artists, but early next year Jon Cattapan is working there, and he told me that more serious artists usually attend.
Either way , l will return again, as the studio works for me and it is a great opportunity to work and live in Venice for a week. You get to see another side when you can spend that amount of time. Jayne and the boys came up for a weekend, and we had some great walking trips into parts of Venice that  don't get the tourists, it can be so quite and peaceful, which is the opposite to San Marco's square.

The art shop, with Georgia, Venice

The art shop, with Georgia, Venice

bedroom in Venice

bedroom in Venice

Lunchtime at Scuola Grafica, Venice

Lunchtime at Scuola Grafica, Venice