Villa Albergati, and other things

Jayne as usual found a most remarkable place called Villa Albergati on the internet, about 20 minutes out of Bologna, a rather ugly building on the outside, but amazing inside with its frescoes, and stairwells, anybody who was somebody stayed there, Voltaire, Napoleon, kings, queens etc. They have for 4 months of the year a fabulous feast on sundays, 35 euro for adults, 18 for kids, l have not eaten better anywhere.
There is a massive table in the dining room, covered in every type of food imaginable, in the old kitchen next door is another large table covered in every desert imaginable, and your job is to work your way through it all, going back an back with a fresh plate. There are several rooms , with about 200 people for lunch, and the food just keeps being replaced from the kitchen with new variations. After lunch we went on a tour of the villa, and later played soccer in the grounds, before collecting some firewood for a fire at home. The villa was saved by 12 investors who bought it from a man who lived in one of the rooms, having to sell of some of the land just to keep it. So before it was lost forever they stepped in and it is used for functions and conferences through out the year, as well as the sunday feasts. In its hey day it had land all the way to Modena and produced hugh amounts of wine that was exported to the USA, and vegetables locally and famous chocolate. We sat at table 13 which was good, as it was in a smaller room, right next to the food, and not as loud as the main dining room.
At the time we had Glenda and Claudio stay with us, Glenda taught us Italian back in Seymour for a  year or so before we came over . They had been traveling around Italy and Ireland, so we got a few more lessons, which can never hurt. Jayne is getting better by the day, l am at least watching some tv shows in Italian, and reading the headlines in the newspaper and looking at the pictures, just like at home with the Sun Herald.
Halloween is hugh here, which surprised me, l did not think the Italians would get involved in a retail propaganda stunt, but l guess the idea of dressing up and partying helps. The boys are off tonight to a halloween party at the school, Ewan is a ninja warrior and Hunter is dracula, hopefully memories of watching Nosferatu with me will come in handy.
Last night we went to the Saint Celilia church, where we have been many times and watched a young women (Chiara Cattani) play the harpsichord for an hour, she was brilliant, works by Handel, Scarlatti and a modern piece by D.Salvatore, La Follia. The boys came as well and were pretty good , considering we arrived 45 minutes early, as it was day light saving, obviously l missed this article in the newspaper!. So they sat for 1.45 , and though they were in a giggling fit at the beginning settled down very well, l did remind Jayne that not many kids would listen to someone playing a harpsichord for 10 minutes.
Tonight l see another studio space in Via Independenza, the one in Strada Maggoire fell through, the owner was worried about mysteries, my friend described him as a meteorological man. So fingers crossed, as l cant keep painting water colours for ever.
Bologna keeps impressing me, last week l discovered another major museum (Collezioni Comunali d'arte) that is located next to the Morandi museum, it is the local council collection, as is massive and set in the most stately rooms and space. One particular artist who shone for me was Pelagio Palagi, wonderful unfinished in appearance portraits, the faces are done but the bodies and often background is raw linen. There was also this perfect marble sculpture of a young boy and an eel, l will have to go back and see it again, and remember the artist name.
This museum along with Museo Civico Medievale, which is down next to Fava Museum are must sees.
On saturday night a strange thing happened we had our first non Italian meal, we went out to an Indian restaurant, and it may not have been in the league that we have in Melbourne, it was a welcome feeling to have something else besides pasta, pizza. The lassi drinks were great, Hunter in particular was a hugh fan, and it reminded us of Boost bars, which we miss. Anyone who wants to make some money should open one here, l am sure even though it is a coffee culture, they would do very well.
And so here l am, the weather is colder, much colder, Jayne has just got back from her gym session, looks like we are having xmas and new year in Cortina skiing, so all aint too bad! Qantas has grounded all its fleet, each day brings another jump or fall in the stock market, as we discover what Europe is doing or not. I just finished reading 1984, and realize things have not changed, but feel good that outside everyone is eating well, taking their time and living like human beings.
Now l must go, as the computer screen is reminding me of the telescreen in 1984, and l fear that l am being corrupted.
2 + 2 = 4.

Table of earthly delights, Villa Albergati

 

Glenda and Claudio , Villa Albergati

What every kitchen needs, a stuffed crocodile

One of the many ceilings

Recent events and thoughts

The latest thing to happen in my world, is l have had to move out of my studio, due to the person l sub-rented through having a disagreement with the owner, so we were given 10 days to move out, which was rather tricky with large thick oil paintings, that were far from dry. Obviously l was pissed, but maybe living in Italy has calmed me a bit, and the fact that the bureaucracy has taught me to be patient (piano, piano)
So a week later, and l may! be moving into a new one just a few minutes from the house, but the owner wanted to meet me first (am sub-renting again from the same guy, you think I'm mad?). He met me today, and the fact that language between us was held to hello, goodbye, l am told it went well. He is going to check out my website, god knows what that will make him think, and his son may ring me, who does speak english. So maybe by monday l will know, and maybe not.
The fact that l put in new lighting 3 weeks ago in the old studio, and had to buy a sink and bench unit for the old studio, is frustrating, but we may well end up getting them back this week, as in Italy everyone brings their own kitchen with them , when they move. These are not remarkable kitchens, often IKEA kitchens, and definitely on the small side.
The new studio , has good light, not great light, but a kitchen (not mine) and a bathroom, heating and wifi. Its only now l realize how good my old studio was, anyway, artists are meant to suffer, maybe this will improve my work!
The boys have been rather painful lately, and Jayne and l have taken to the old threatening no birthday party line, 30 days out. l think they smelt a rat quickly, and have no fear of that it seems now. Still they have had a big change, and school work has become more involved. On the positive side they are doing well in drama, probably due to the play acting they are doing with us regarding the birthday party, and have started calcio (soccer, football). They play a a typical park area, which are found around Bologna, all built l would say in the 70s, needing some restoration. The grounds are mainly dirt, except the main ground, their coach is around 65, 5 foot tall, smokes and yells at them like a russian, he recently had them doing push ups, because some kid was crying and said they upset him, so the whole team was penalized. I like him, he brings a bit of reality to the game. The italian kids are just like the professional players, they fall down alot, crab their ankles, or plead for frees. I am proud to say Ewan got a ball kicked into his balls, and Hunter was pushed over twice, both got up, smiled and got on with it, though Ewans smile may have been a bit forced. What they lack in skill they make up with determination, fitness. They play in their soccer-roo tops, soon with the thermal leggings, as it is starting to get rather nippy.
Jayne is hoping they will join the choir, which is well attended by students, though they miss two lunchtime plays a week, which is a big deal to them.
We finally got our residency, which we were told we were getting 3 months ago, the hold up was that some dickhead had spelt Ewans middle name as Duc, not Doc ( this of course could cause a national intelligence disaster) , they blamed us, we did mention that we felt we would know how to spell our own child's name, did not seem to interest them, so about 150 euro later it is done. We now spend another 20 euro, plus the cost of 3 photos from a photo booth each to get residency cards. On the photo stuff, we also need another 3 photos of the boys to join the calcio club. Who the hell needs so many photos, Berlusconi could solve the Italian debt with the money made from the photo booths, he probably is, its just so expensive with his legal fees.
You also have to have a doctors certificate every-time your child joins anything, luckily we photo copied the one and use that.
Our piazza is again alive and well this weekend, a cake theme prevails, Kitchen Aid has a tent, a cup cake tent, cake demonstrations etc, the place was busy busy busy. Last weekend was the monthly market, which is hugh, we looked at one picture to buy, when we spoke to the women and she gave the sell on it, she asked where we were from, and then said that she bought the picture in Sydney, it was of a Frenchman who worked there for awhile at the beginning of the 1900s, all quite weird, we didn't but it.
Bologna has many african immigrants wandering the streets selling socks, tissues, etc, got to know a few of them, and they are from Liberia, which you should google as it is very interesting place and history. Anyway, they are happy smiling people, so l am happy to give them some money when they ask, the strange thing is l am seeing them a bit too often now, l fear they are now living outside our front door to the palazzo. Like swooping magpies, the boys and l now leave to school with hats on our heads and ride fast.

Out at our favourite osteria

Mad hatters, Sal and Jayne

Sally Nance and girls at dinner with us

Somewhere to put my helmet

 

Roman centry

 

Roman helmet sale

Ewan with his creation

Hunter with masterpiece

 

Canals of Bologna

Strange as it may sound, but once Bologna was similar to Venice. Many many years ago a river ran through Bologna, from the hills to the south, the river was used for drinking, washing and industry (silk and tannery) In fact the river had several water mills along it for such industries. As the years passed, the river was slowly built over, by people needing more space, and finally the river disappeared, and all that was left were canals underground. In the hills above Bologna there is still the reservoir and aqua-duct, built by the Romans to control the quality and amount of water going to Bologna for washing and drinking, the head pressure was used to power the fountains. The water was collected from the many streams and under ground seams that held water. The canal now has been concreted on the ground, and pipes move sewerage and water along it, though in heavy rains the canals fill up to around a meter deep. When you walk along them, you see the original Roman bridge which is underneath the main intersection at the two towers, and Etruscan brick, stone work as well. And signs where someone tried digging up into the bottom of a major bank at Piazza Minghetti, reminds me of the Italian Job.
They have many tours of the canals, though not over winter, one which might be fun is held on Halloween.
Apparently you can still see on some buildings metal hooks where boats would tie up to, its probably better covered, as it would be otherwise a visual river full of cigarette butts and dog shit.
We did this tour with about 15 people, and it was done by a new friend Massimo Martelli (Max), who is a loyal local, a art historian and professional guide, and knows everything about this wonderful city.