Dowd adventures in Bologna

domenica 26 febbraio 2012

Home Sweet Home. London

Well we are all back from a week in London, and what a week. catching up with Holly and Steve Thomson and baby Rose in Richmond, and then stayed with Kate and Mike Frayes family in Chelsea which was fantastic fun

For me it was a Picasso and English influenced artists at the Tate, then David Hockney "A Bigger Picture" at The Royal Academy of the Arts, and then Freud at the Portrait Gallery, finishing with new German artists at Satcchi Gallery. The Tate modern was terrific, but no major show on that l wanted to see. As well as that we had an exhibition of Scotts expedition to Antarctica in 1912 when he died at the Natural History Museum, and another photographic show of Ponting and Hurleys photographs from Shackelton and Scotts trips. So life was great for me for a week, and the boys enjoyed most of the shows, especially the natural history museums rock/ mineral display and a dinosaur exhibition. A few weeks earlier l was in New York for 5 days, and l must say that London has it on New York for art shows and exhibitions, London to me seems very alive and clever, were New York seemed tired and the same. Don't get me wrong, Central Park, the people, buildings of NY are amazing, and it is New York, but l guess I was surprised by London as l did not expect much. Now we have been in Bologna around 10 months, and it was quite lovely to have fish and chips, steak pies, pork pies with squashed peas to eat, but the coffee and brioches are just too good in Italy to compare, there was alot of Starbucks, which is really crappy. We loved the double decker buses, and you must get an Oyster card to travel with , big saving. The other great delight was so many green areas, my favorite is St James Park, the view and effect of light across the pond is picturesque, but any green area is good,especially from Bologna were there are none really except for Marguerita Gardens.

All our friends were so good to us, Mike kept going out of his way as always to make sure we enjoyed ourselves, and Kate was so relaxed and easy with us, though she had sick kids and no nanny that week. And of course Holly and Steve were Holly and Steve, perfect. It was also good to catch up with my old neighbour from Waterloo Street, Simon Lee who has been living there for 25 years, and has his own most impressive major gallery there, he kindly invited us to his place at late notice for drinks, and we hope to keep in touch alot more. So London was terrific, and l dont harbor the emotions l had of the English nearly as much as before.

We did the "EYE" the big wheel which apparently is London's biggest fund earner in tourism, and l must say it was terrific, we went up on a sunny day, so that helped. The thing we noticed was the queues, we lined up to go into the Natural History museum for 45 minutes, then another 20 minutes to get into the show, then it was 35 minutes at Hockney, 30 minutes at Freud to then get a entry ticket for an hour later, and the wheel was a bout 45 minutes. They say book your tickets on line, and in some cases that can be quicker, but often it is the queuing to get into the show that takes time. My best advice is get a pram and a doll, push up to the start of the line, and say you had to leave quickly from the show as the child had shitted itself, and l feel you will sneak in straight away and for free. Of course you will have to find a pram and doll. Everyone in London is incredibly friendly, from the hotel we stayed in near Richmond at Kew Gardens to the cabbie, underground ticket operator, bus operator, tour guides, it was hard to find someone who was rude or uncaring. Thank fully we made it back to Italy, where as Jayne remarked as soon as the plane landed everyone started pushing and being generally unhelpful, ahh its good to be back home!!!The first meal we had was dinner that night a solid tortellini broda, lasagna, gnocchi, and tagliatelle fungi, simple and perfect. Followed up with a gelati. Its amazing the difference in two places only 1 1/2 hours away from each other by plane, and thank god for that!

mercoledì 15 febbraio 2012

The Bolognese Shuffle

Winter in Bologna, they warned us how cold it gets, and the chill gets into your bones, but like Antarctica it is not cold if you wear a jacket!
So everyone in Bologna wears either a Woolrich or Pueterey jackets, l personally prefer the more fitted Pueterey, there are of course those who wear puffy jackets but lets not talk about them, as they often wear their Ugg boots as well, and need to have sun glasses on. So its not that cold, colder in New York, the most important piece of clothing are boots, l wear Sorrells or my Redback work boots, but no boot is designed for the terracco polished walkways under the porticos. With just a bit of water or snow, they become a skate rink. And so the Bolognese shuffle comes to life, you see well dressed people shuffling along the walkways, rarely moving sideways, which is something they continue in summer as well, so wearing large jackets is essential as there is a lot of shoulder work. You look forward to a stretch of regular stone floor or concrete, but then you hit the open area wear the snow and ice are stained with the yellow tinge of dog pee, or ochre colour of shit. And beware of the falling icicles from the blocked guttering high above, if there are not casualties from this l will be most surprised, as Bologna is decorated like a christmas tree with these icicles dangling down.
The streets are silent, no scooters, few cars, and the people go quite, there seems to be less smoking as well, snow is such a leveller, it flattens space and softens light, it reaches into the people and subdues them, calms them. Winter is when the Italian bars come to life, they are a sanctuary from the cold or snow, a quick pit stop for a una caffe e brioche, and back out again, just enough time to warm the face and let the snow melt from the boots, leaving puddles in the bar. And cardboard, the material that l search for around the bins in the streets to paint on, takes on a new life in winter. Everyone is busy looking for large bits of cardboard in the streets, its a battle , as they use it to place on the portico floors to soak up the water, make it less slippery outside their shops, of course this brilliant idea has one small drawback, its cardboard! And so a couple of hours later it turns dark, and begin to break up, there upon wedging small pieces into the sole of your boots, making them now less likely to grip a surface, and the cardboard ends up spread over a hugh area, thank god there seems to be a never ending amount of cardboard in Bologna.
Now on another direction, we have had two lovely weekends lately with friends, going to Ca'Shin in the hills of Bologna, a co-op style restaurant, that has courses and holds events, it is a most beautiful villa in the hills, at the moment covered in snow, the kids can play outside, and the food and service is relaxed and most enjoyable. The other place was a Brazilian restaurant out in a nearby town called San Lazzalo, great to eat lots of meat again, and the best thing is their is a ten pin bowling place next door. Finally all those years l spent at the Golden Bowl came back to serve me well. Those who know me well, may know l have my own bowling shoes, that l somehow pinched years ago from the Golden Bowl, a red/white/blue banded pair, with number 8 on the heel, leather sole of course, the perfect dress shoe. I wont harp on about the bowling just to say the kids had a lane, the mothers another, and the fathers another. I came a solid second beaten by Christiano, the gentleman! who bowled wonderfully, having two strikes. But if l could say, l still have that lovely style where my back foot slides behind and across me as l let the ball go, it is as professional footwork as you could get, years of watching the professional drop outs bowl, while having a super thick shake with Simon Lee and Jason at the Golden Bowl.
The boys school, has been closed for a week over this snow period, why is another question, as you can still move about, and suddenly every parent had to change their lives and job times to suit having the kids at home. No homework was sent out by email, no thought of asking the parents what they wanted to do, no leadership, no bloody idea what to do. Well l am glad to drop that heavy load, just dont get me going again on the school, the cost and the moronic thinking that comes from this supposed International School begs belief.
Jaynes Italian is better and better, she has classes every day from 9.30 - 1.30, as well a her friend Berenese, who speaks solely in Italian to her, with the occasional English for correction, she is French, but speaks Italian perfectly, and is learning English, and this is the way to learn a language, speak it. Sadly l am in the studio listening to talk back radio, and mumbling to myself in a language that is yet to be recognized.
The boys have a young girl who picks them up from school on thursday, and spends two hours talking only in Italian, and so they are improving well, and have a better understanding than you think.
Off to London with the family on Friday, the school has a weeks holiday, called ski week, don't get me going !!!! So we are going to London, to see Holly and Steve, (the boys god parents), and Mike and Kate Frayne, as well as the natural history museum, David Hockney exhibition, Lucian Freud drawing show and have a go on the big wheel.

lunedì 30 gennaio 2012

La Piccola Galleria

Well l have talked about the idea for sometime, and where better to do it than somewhere else, Bologna, I have opened a gallery. Now before we get to excited, it is as the name suggests rather small (La Piccola Galleria), in fact it is the front room of my new studio, and in winter it just does not get very warm, and you do have the issue of people staring in through the glass windows. So l have turned the 3.5 x 3 metre room into a gallery. The opening was last saturday 28/1/12, it coincided with La Notte Bianca, which is part of the Arte Fiera, a large art fair and art awareness week. The exhibition centre here puts on a fair much like the art fair in Melbourne, there are two large arenas which showcase galleries local and elsewhere, and another space for galleries showing more traditional or recognized artists, like Di Chirico, Burri, Paladino, Chia etc. The standard is high like Melbourne, but also lots of crap, lots of look at me pictures, and too many neon tubes. But the coffee and food is excellent. The third room is a real treat to see so many works by these artists is terrific. In Bologna all the galleries and bars stay open till early morning on the saturday allowing people to walk and eat as they go around. So with this in mind, l opened on this night, and had about 50 or so people visit, lots of lovely words, but no sales yet.
I have decided to every month, have a small opening of the work l have done that month, keeps me honest, and a good excuse to see people once a month.
So my new studio is not as great as the greatest studio l had before, not much natural light, or air flow, ground floor, but is has the opportunity for the gallery, and is well set up once l get some more fluoro lighting in the studio area.
My first show was of the works (watercolours) l did at Cortina in the Dolomites, as well as works l did in the studio the last week ( larger gouche works on cardboard) and two larger oils on linen (though unfinished)
So now l am back furiously working away, feeling better and my mind is a buzz of activity.

domenica 1 gennaio 2012

Historical facts about Cortina

Dolomite ( /ˈdɒləmaɪt/) is a carbonate mineral composed of calcium magnesium carbonate CaMg(CO3)2. The term is also used to describe the sedimentary carbonate rock dolostone.
Now dolomite has also been found in high saline parts of the Coorong in South Australia. It is the manganese that gives the rock the pink colour that seems to be golden in the morning light.
Dolomite is used to make concrete which you can see mine areas all along the road into Cortina.
Apparently Cortina is very much liked by the wealthy families because there is only one way in and out, and so kidnapping is uncommon, if this fact is true they need help, and l presume it was before helicopters were flying.
The kin folk of Cortina parade around not only in full length furs , but also weird party dress's that look like dolls dress's or something out of a German kids story book. Now l accept this may have been rather normal back centuries ago, but today? These people obviously have not ventured down the only road in and out over the years and are in some kind of time warp.
Ohh l found out why some hot chocolates are so thick, they add flour, that has ruined it for me now.
The town of Cortina has some very wonderfully designed living spaces in the old style buildings here. The buildings are all white with wooden verandas and railing, all done with some kind of decorative design , mostly 3-4 stories high, with an attached wooden storeroom for the animals and workshop of years past. They have a railed area for veggie gardens in summer, and metal roofs with the railing to stop the snow sliding off. What l have noticed which is very illustrative of Italy is that many buildings are un occupied due to safety reasons or have not been up dated for 30 -40 years. And though they walk around in their furs, which are also often 30 -40 years old ( thank god for the animals) they are broke, and this is Italy.
I am thinking and I'll need this proven scientifically , that the reason for the orange faces is due to the drinking of the local water which is very tasty, having a high amount of manganese in it and when the sun hits their faces they go a golden orange colour , this of course is heightened when they wear their umpler umpler suits.
Now l may be going into difficult territory here, but my feeling from meeting several groups of people here is that the women have got some grave issues, and have a hostile nature , this may be due to the fact that the Botox and surgical ventures have seized their facial manners, or the chemicals have got into the blood and made them go a bit goofy. That said l find most men quite normal and casual, but the fact they stay with these beasts begs the thought that they too suffer from something. I should add that this is about the regular inhabitants not the passing trade. Though l have started to hold back from drinking the tasty water.
I swear today when l was walking down the main strip, it was as if l had accidentally warped myself to Spain and was watching the running of the bulls, l have never ever seen so much fur, or animal hide.

venerdì 30 dicembre 2011

Cortina

Here we are in Cortina, the Aspen of Italy, but there are many differences. Firstly we rented an apartment for the month, so the boys and us have had lots of skiing. The first week was perfect, no one was here, the slopes were empty, though not alot of snow has fallen, they make plenty, and the runs were fine for us. The second week, just before Christmas day got busier and busier with Italians, and l am am told after new years eve they leave and the Russians come. I noted than in one of the pizzerias the menu was in Italian, English and Russsian.
Now the differences with Cortina and other famous ski places, to me is the quality of the shops and village, Cortina is very large and spread out, but there is a main street for pedestrians only and this is where the wild beasts of Cortina wander. I talk of course of the women but some men who cover themselves in furs, head to toe and parade up and down the street dropping in to galleries to see a Palladino, or Sandra Chia or to a bar or Enoteca to chat to other beasts. Hunter who by name mentioned his appraisal of them, in a question to me, dad why do all the people who wear furs have the same faces? We talk of orange faces, which have been surgically altered to become the beast, and the orange tablet or solarium lamps to give them their colour. These beasts don't ski, they wander in search of their own kind, though we saw one yesterday at the base of the ski slope, she was all white, a white woolen jump suit, with fur ankles and a fur ring hat, fur necklace and six inch high heals, along with the goldie locks hair and orange skin. I was so shocked to see this beast l actually had to walk over and have a good hard look. Others lie on the deck chairs that are out at the base of the slopes as their young ski the slopes.
The snow boarders, who l personnaly don't like alot, as they annoy me on the slopes, as l find it hard enough, don't dress up like the American boarders, to me to snow board is to dress up, and l still feel the best skiers wear fitted pants.
The boys have had two weeks of lessons and have moved through the classes and stages very quickly, they got their bronze badge and get their silver on Monday. Ewan has absolutely no fear and goes so fast straight down the hills, Hunter goes more for the 180, 360 degree turns and often is seen deliberately skiing backwards down the slope, he likes to finish off with a skid of snow flying in the air.
I do what l do, l feel that l look good, but like my golf swing l am sure if l saw a video l would be embarrassed. I do the blue and red runs, and had a go at the black runs last week, l got down one that has no name, just a number, 63 as it is a death defying run and brings fear to those who would dare mention it by name. I did it three times, cutting the snow Iike a butcher. This gave me the confidence to challenge a black slope that we can see from the apartment, it runs between two large rocks , l went up the chair lift three times, deciding each time to do the red instead , then l said no it ain't that steep go for it. l did , reached the edge and a vertical cliff of ice faced me, the angle of the chair lift and the slope are the same so it looks better from the lift. Still l was here and no turning back, l did the first, second turn, the slope was like an ice rink, the third l fell, muttering to myself to concentrate and cut the ice l lifted and hit the forth turn, my last turn, l fell, rolled and just could not stop, as l frantically put the stocks into the ice, l finally came to rest two thirds down, checking everything was there, and surprise surprise it was, l lifted and spead the rest straight down, the quicker l got off the better. l could feel the several dozen eyes watch me from the chair lift as l fell. I noted the slope was empty for some time afterwards. You may think me fool hardy, even suicidal, but it was a strange feeling, as if the hand of my brother pushing me over the edge, as he did so many years ago, making me fearful of black, and so l am often seen wearing colour.
Jayne is different she tackles the slopes in a mechanical, robotic manner, methodically doing turns down the slope, which can be annoying when you are behind her, as the turns are not even. But she gets there, though she has a few bruises from mishaps. The boys today got medals for some type of competition in their groups, Ewan l am proud to say came first, Hunty fifth, this is wonderful as Hunty normally always gets first, he did mention to me that he has lots of first awards at home for running, maybe speed skating is more for him, though the way he spins on the snow and ice, maybe it is ice dancing, he will be the first to do it to AC DC.
At the moment we are preparing for new years eve, we are staying here with Francesca and Dario and their son Dodo, there is enough food for thirty people, l did ask, as l find it difficult with many strangers, l am told it is only 10. Kim Foran who came to Bologna a couple of days before we came to Cortina, went off to Venice for the last 2 days, and is back at 6pm. Apparently they have got some bloke called Giorgio coming who is single and been whacked with the ugly stick till senseless, but l am told has a lovely personality, this meeting may give me some joy, as l know Kim. Kim has been a joy to have and is great with the boys, in particular Hunty who really likes being around her and Ewan shares his bunk room with her here.
Kim has just returned after a wonderful time in Venice, though she had to change hotels on the second night and got no sleep, she then was mis directed to the wrong train and ended up in the middle of no where with some buck toothed moronic 14 year old boy trying to take her iPad from her. She got away but somewhere in Italy is a town like Deliverance.
The winter tyres which l have mentioned before have proved to be a hugh success, the fact it is law to have them on, they allow me to tackle the corners well in the hills. The small negative is the slopes are all surrounding Cortina and you have to drive up to 40 minutes to each one, some are only 10 minutes. And so you need the confidence of tyres to grip the road as some idiot who most likely has a beast in the front seat, wanders across the road.
We were warned about the high costs of Cortina, but l must say l think it may be cheaper than Bologna, mind you as l have said before Bologna is very expensive. Though l am glad we went to Decathlon to buy all our ski clothing, helmets and goggles, as that place which is like a hugh Rebel is so good on price.
Visually Cortina is wonderful, rock peaks surround, with incredible formations, there is a colour in the rock that goes bright orange, much like the beasts faces in the morning as the rising sun hits certain peaks. I have been doing a few water colours of the peaks and snow scenes, much like the works l did from South Georgia and Whistler. I must say it is a joy to paint snow and the colours of snow, and the people skiing.
And so Cortina is well worth visiting, just to see the beasts, but if you just want to ski go to Whistler.

mercoledì 30 novembre 2011

Times they are not a changin, here at least!

I read the Australian papers, l watch CNN and hear of the collapsing world, the end is nigh, ohhh lord why does thee forsake me stuff, and then l walk out the door and all is as normal. Italians, or maybe Bolognese wont accept it , or maybe they don't watch CNN, who can blame them. Either way, they walk the streets with their shopping label bags of desire, they are in the bars chatting over a expresso and brioche, the osteria's are full, even the street beggers are not complaining. The weather has been unseasonally good, the streets are lined with wonderful christmas lights and decorations, maybe they listened to Gerard Harvey when he said if we all woke up the next morning and said what crisis and just acted as normal , it would be normal.
Next issue of thought, l went to my bank yesterday to transfer some funds back to Australia, as l am a bit nervous that some of the many banks here may come into some difficulty, and the staff member who does international transfers was not there, so a kind women had a go, then said "computer say no" best to come back tomorrow. So l came back today and the women who does the transfers was there, l explained what l wanted to do, then she said yes, would you like to do that now!, of course my mind said something sarcastic, but my mouth, said that would be great. And that is Italy now, then and always, there is always tomorrow to pay off the national debt, the national bonds are at record highs, but maybe they wont be tomorrow.!
Now there are so many great things about Italy, and l rarely like to complain, as l am a guest and this is Italy, but it is true the Romans gave us roads, aquaducts, and syphillis, but what they did not give and have no idea about is supermarkets. Now we mainly shop at the local speciality stores, but occasionally we do the big shop for toilet paper, toothpaste, and a million other things you didn't know you needed. And the problem l have is the aisles are too thin, there seems to be no rhyme or reason to where things are put, people happily chat away in the middle of the isle oblivious to you wanting to get past, the check out areas are too small, and the area where the food pass's to be packed by yourself is tiny, and the check out chick is way too fast, so the food piles up, and always the bread and avocado is on the bottom, even when l put them on last. So l go into a panic and go as quick as l can to fill my eco bags, but there is just not enough room, the food keeps piling up, in fact l think there are foods we have not even purchased thrown in by some evil doer just to keep me mad. Then comes the bill, no matter what it is you end up with lots of coins, mainly copper, they still have 1,2,5 cent coins, why?
That said, life is wonderful here and l agree with most other forms of shopping.
I turn 49 tomorrow, and today l am dressed as Woody from Toy Story, make what you will with that.
Just found out we have to purchase "winter tyres" something new for me, apparently winter can be rather slippery and snow, now l hope it is not just over kill, but we are getting some Bridgestone Blizzards, which sound great, but l fear too much went into the marketing of these tyres as the price is rather high. We are off to Cortina ( a name that says wonderful snow, views and skiing, but also an average popular car) in our Honda, with BLIZZARD tyres which l am sure we will need there. So this christmas will be white, we are staying in an apartment in the town, sharing it with some lovely Italian friends we have made here.
Hunter has a friend who made 200 euro doing some photos for Armani Kids, he now is very keen to do some modeling, and every day asks if we can go there so he can do it and get the money. He has also instructed me to put the money in a bank account. On the other side, Ewan is carrying around right now a soft santa that plays "you better watch out, santa claus is coming to town" and asking do you think he will get as many presents as last year. He is not asking me to place his money in a bank account, as he spends it too quickly.
Jayne bought some very expensive looking boots yesterday, put them on and asked me what l thought, l liked them ,but worried about the cost, she said she got them for 40 euro, l love them now!
Tonight we had another great meal by Jayne, rabbit ragu, so here we are eating fine rabbit, while back home l have given instructions to put out bait to kill them at Teneriffe.
I found a new studio finally, Via Remorsella, 13a, it used to be a doctors room, it has a small reception area with windows to the road on two sides, so good light, l will use this more for display and doing small works, then through a door to a larger room, but not large where l will paint. In the back there is a toilet, and large wash basin, this area also has natural light, and electric security cage over the windows. It is a few minutes walk from the house, all under cover, quite street, so l should not have too many people peering in the windows. Looking forward to getting back into a studio, doing the small works on cardboard has been good, and l am sure will lead into bigger and better things. I love cardboard, l have become quite the connoisseur about the qualities and texture, and can often be seen going through the bins of Bologna.

domenica 20 novembre 2011

Bologna, bellissimo

Bologna, the city that keeps on giving. Well the christmas decorations are starting to spring up, thank fully no silly old santas in the windows, but some shops have put some incredible effort in their displays, like the Myer windows but on a smaller level. But what really has been extravagant is the chocolate fair that has come to Piazza Maggiore , 70 stands, selling, displaying the best chocolate and most amazing ideas. There is chocolate in all sorts of shapes, forms and styles, there is chocolate as a large spinning lamb kebab, that they carve of slices of chocolate. Chocolate in the form of salami, bread rolls, parmesan cheese, every possible character, mobile phones, cameras, rusty old tool from long forgotten sheds. On the fashion side, shoes formed into stilettos, handbags, runners, shirt and ties. There are so many variations of hot chocolate , white, dark, milk, hazelnut, nutella and hybrids. There of course is the small delicate pieces that nanna likes to get for christmas, and willy wonker wrapped blocks. The question is where to start and when to stop, neither l have done well, who thought l could have spent 35 euro at one stand for myself. The fair has gone for 4 days, and happens every year, great for christmas presents.
The temperature has now dropped down to 10 - 12 during the days, but often with sunshine, and down to 0-3 during the night, but the streets are still full of people in their puffy jackets, l'd love a dime for every puffy jacket, I'm sure they have a better name for it as that does not sound so cool.
Now yesterday we all went on the train to Florence, nice city!
The Duomo really could use a clean, the amount of dark mould or acid rain effect was very disappointing, and i've seen better interiors. The Uffizi was something else, besides no cue to get in and finally able to use our residence cards to get cheaper tickets, made me look at the poor tourists paying the 4 euros more in a way that felt good. The art is famous, and there was no disappointment, l especially liked Botticelli pictures, particularly Spring, there was a El Greco, which speaks for itself and a few Caravaggio's. There were two Venetian painters , Jacapo Zucchi and Jacapo Chimenti who l found interesting and the Tintoretto portraits. I picked up a book by Georgio Vasari, about the lives of artists of the time, he himself was an artist and friend of the Medici's. Of course there is all the sculptures and the views along the river and on to Ponte Vecchio, so that made it a very good day for me.
My main interest in going to Florence was to see Cellini's "Perseus" in the Loggia della Signoria, it did not let me down, surrounded by other great works (Hercules and Nessus by Giambologna), it is an amazing porch! and should never be missed.
Maybe l am becoming a bit loyal to Bologna, but l found Florence so so, obviously except for the Uffizi. l missed the portico's, and it really is a tourist city, which is good in the manner that it is clean, but everyone speaks English, and though it is comfortable, it does not help to learn, and makes you feel you are at Disneyland.
It takes just over 30 minutes to get there from Bologna on the fast train, and cost us 132 euro for the family return.
Next time l want to visit the house of Rodolfo Siviero, a man who helped return many of the stolen artworks back from Germany to Italy, many of which are in the Uffici.
Tomorrow l see another possible studio, so fingers crossed, l have now set up a table in the entry of the house and painting on horse scenes cardboard, its amazing how many horses you see in art, still have no interest in riding them, and think you have to be crazy to want to have them, but they are great to paint, and you can always find some statue of a bloke on one in every city.