Dowd adventures in Bologna

lunedì 31 ottobre 2011

Villa Albergati, and other things

Jayne as usual found a most remarkable place called Villa Albergati on the internet, about 20 minutes out of Bologna, a rather ugly building on the outside, but amazing inside with its frescoes, and stairwells, anybody who was somebody stayed there, Voltaire, Napoleon, kings, queens etc. They have for 4 months of the year a fabulous feast on sundays, 35 euro for adults, 18 for kids, l have not eaten better anywhere.
There is a massive table in the dining room, covered in every type of food imaginable, in the old kitchen next door is another large table covered in every desert imaginable, and your job is to work your way through it all, going back an back with a fresh plate. There are several rooms , with about 200 people for lunch, and the food just keeps being replaced from the kitchen with new variations. After lunch we went on a tour of the villa, and later played soccer in the grounds, before collecting some firewood for a fire at home. The villa was saved by 12 investors who bought it from a man who lived in one of the rooms, having to sell of some of the land just to keep it. So before it was lost forever they stepped in and it is used for functions and conferences through out the year, as well as the sunday feasts. In its hey day it had land all the way to Modena and produced hugh amounts of wine that was exported to the USA, and vegetables locally and famous chocolate. We sat at table 13 which was good, as it was in a smaller room, right next to the food, and not as loud as the main dining room.
At the time we had Glenda and Claudio stay with us, Glenda taught us Italian back in Seymour for a year or so before we came over . They had been traveling around Italy and Ireland, so we got a few more lessons, which can never hurt. Jayne is getting better by the day, l am at least watching some tv shows in Italian, and reading the headlines in the newspaper and looking at the pictures, just like at home with the Sun Herald.
Halloween is hugh here, which surprised me, l did not think the Italians would get involved in a retail propaganda stunt, but l guess the idea of dressing up and partying helps. The boys are off tonight to a halloween party at the school, Ewan is a ninja warrior and Hunter is dracula, hopefully memories of watching Nosferatu with me will come in handy.
Last night we went to the Saint Celilia church, where we have been many times and watched a young women (Chiara Cattani) play the harpsichord for an hour, she was brilliant, works by Handel, Scarlatti and a modern piece by D.Salvatore, La Follia. The boys came as well and were pretty good , considering we arrived 45 minutes early, as it was day light saving, obviously l missed this article in the newspaper!. So they sat for 1.45 , and though they were in a giggling fit at the beginning settled down very well, l did remind Jayne that not many kids would listen to someone playing a harpsichord for 10 minutes.
Tonight l see another studio space in Via Independenza, the one in Strada Maggoire fell through, the owner was worried about mysteries, my friend described him as a meteorological man. So fingers crossed, as l cant keep painting water colours for ever.
Bologna keeps impressing me, last week l discovered another major museum (Collezioni Comunali d'arte) that is located next to the Morandi museum, it is the local council collection, as is massive and set in the most stately rooms and space. One particular artist who shone for me was Pelagio Palagi, wonderful unfinished in appearance portraits, the faces are done but the bodies and often background is raw linen. There was also this perfect marble sculpture of a young boy and an eel, l will have to go back and see it again, and remember the artist name.
This museum along with Museo Civico Medievale, which is down next to Fava Museum are must sees.
On saturday night a strange thing happened we had our first non Italian meal, we went out to an Indian restaurant, and it may not have been in the league that we have in Melbourne, it was a welcome feeling to have something else besides pasta, pizza. The lassi drinks were great, Hunter in particular was a hugh fan, and it reminded us of Boost bars, which we miss. Anyone who wants to make some money should open one here, l am sure even though it is a coffee culture, they would do very well.
And so here l am, the weather is colder, much colder, Jayne has just got back from her gym session, looks like we are having xmas and new year in Cortina skiing, so all aint too bad! Qantas has grounded all its fleet, each day brings another jump or fall in the stock market, as we discover what Europe is doing or not. I just finished reading 1984, and realize things have not changed, but feel good that outside everyone is eating well, taking their time and living like human beings.
Now l must go, as the computer screen is reminding me of the telescreen in 1984, and l fear that l am being corrupted.
2 + 2 = 4.

sabato 15 ottobre 2011

Recent events and thoughts

The latest thing to happen in my world, is l have had to move out of my studio, due to the person l sub-rented through having a disagreement with the owner, so we were given 10 days to move out, which was rather tricky with large thick oil paintings, that were far from dry. Obviously l was pissed, but maybe living in Italy has calmed me a bit, and the fact that the bureaucracy has taught me to be patient (piano, piano)
So a week later, and l may! be moving into a new one just a few minutes from the house, but the owner wanted to meet me first (am sub-renting again from the same guy, you think I'm mad?). He met me today, and the fact that language between us was held to hello, goodbye, l am told it went well. He is going to check out my website, god knows what that will make him think, and his son may ring me, who does speak english. So maybe by monday l will know, and maybe not.
The fact that l put in new lighting 3 weeks ago in the old studio, and had to buy a sink and bench unit for the old studio, is frustrating, but we may well end up getting them back this week, as in Italy everyone brings their own kitchen with them , when they move. These are not remarkable kitchens, often IKEA kitchens, and definitely on the small side.
The new studio , has good light, not great light, but a kitchen (not mine) and a bathroom, heating and wifi. Its only now l realize how good my old studio was, anyway, artists are meant to suffer, maybe this will improve my work!
The boys have been rather painful lately, and Jayne and l have taken to the old threatening no birthday party line, 30 days out. l think they smelt a rat quickly, and have no fear of that it seems now. Still they have had a big change, and school work has become more involved. On the positive side they are doing well in drama, probably due to the play acting they are doing with us regarding the birthday party, and have started calcio (soccer, football). They play a a typical park area, which are found around Bologna, all built l would say in the 70s, needing some restoration. The grounds are mainly dirt, except the main ground, their coach is around 65, 5 foot tall, smokes and yells at them like a russian, he recently had them doing push ups, because some kid was crying and said they upset him, so the whole team was penalized. I like him, he brings a bit of reality to the game. The italian kids are just like the professional players, they fall down alot, crab their ankles, or plead for frees. I am proud to say Ewan got a ball kicked into his balls, and Hunter was pushed over twice, both got up, smiled and got on with it, though Ewans smile may have been a bit forced. What they lack in skill they make up with determination, fitness. They play in their soccer-roo tops, soon with the thermal leggings, as it is starting to get rather nippy.
Jayne is hoping they will join the choir, which is well attended by students, though they miss two lunchtime plays a week, which is a big deal to them.
We finally got our residency, which we were told we were getting 3 months ago, the hold up was that some dickhead had spelt Ewans middle name as Duc, not Doc ( this of course could cause a national intelligence disaster) , they blamed us, we did mention that we felt we would know how to spell our own child's name, did not seem to interest them, so about 150 euro later it is done. We now spend another 20 euro, plus the cost of 3 photos from a photo booth each to get residency cards. On the photo stuff, we also need another 3 photos of the boys to join the calcio club. Who the hell needs so many photos, Berlusconi could solve the Italian debt with the money made from the photo booths, he probably is, its just so expensive with his legal fees.
You also have to have a doctors certificate every-time your child joins anything, luckily we photo copied the one and use that.
Our piazza is again alive and well this weekend, a cake theme prevails, Kitchen Aid has a tent, a cup cake tent, cake demonstrations etc, the place was busy busy busy. Last weekend was the monthly market, which is hugh, we looked at one picture to buy, when we spoke to the women and she gave the sell on it, she asked where we were from, and then said that she bought the picture in Sydney, it was of a Frenchman who worked there for awhile at the beginning of the 1900s, all quite weird, we didn't but it.
Bologna has many african immigrants wandering the streets selling socks, tissues, etc, got to know a few of them, and they are from Liberia, which you should google as it is very interesting place and history. Anyway, they are happy smiling people, so l am happy to give them some money when they ask, the strange thing is l am seeing them a bit too often now, l fear they are now living outside our front door to the palazzo. Like swooping magpies, the boys and l now leave to school with hats on our heads and ride fast.

venerdì 14 ottobre 2011

Canals of Bologna

Strange as it may sound, but once Bologna was similar to Venice. Many many years ago a river ran through Bologna, from the hills to the south, the river was used for drinking, washing and industry (silk and tannery) In fact the river had several water mills along it for such industries. As the years passed, the river was slowly built over, by people needing more space, and finally the river disappeared, and all that was left were canals underground. In the hills above Bologna there is still the reservoir and aqua-duct, built by the Romans to control the quality and amount of water going to Bologna for washing and drinking, the head pressure was used to power the fountains. The water was collected from the many streams and under ground seams that held water. The canal now has been concreted on the ground, and pipes move sewerage and water along it, though in heavy rains the canals fill up to around a meter deep. When you walk along them, you see the original Roman bridge which is underneath the main intersection at the two towers, and Etruscan brick, stone work as well. And signs where someone tried digging up into the bottom of a major bank at Piazza Minghetti, reminds me of the Italian Job.
They have many tours of the canals, though not over winter, one which might be fun is held on Halloween.
Apparently you can still see on some buildings metal hooks where boats would tie up to, its probably better covered, as it would be otherwise a visual river full of cigarette butts and dog shit.
We did this tour with about 15 people, and it was done by a new friend Massimo Martelli (Max), who is a loyal local, a art historian and professional guide, and knows everything about this wonderful city.

lunedì 26 settembre 2011

Bologna alive and well

Well the last weekend was busy busy busy in Bologna, it was like a boxing day sale, apparently there was a fair on and everyone came into town. The piazzas were alive as well, in Santo Stefano there was a promotion on sports, table tennis tables, soccer games, basketball (Bolognas big sport) rugby, orienteering, and of course the old favorite middle age fencing, sorry too confuse you, not middle age fencing, but Medieval sword fighting, as the swords are rather large and clumsy as compared to today, hence the fact you don't see it that much anymore, well not at the Olympics. The boys had a great time shooting baskets, and collected two rugby balls, which add to the aussie rule ball's, soccer ball's and tennis ball's.
Then over at Piazza Maggiore was an astonishing presentation and spectacular Roman army village, set up with tents, kitchen, shield and spear making, a physician tent and musical instrument demonstration. There was about 40 people involved, all in authentic uniforms, and they put on demonstrations of battle practice and a shield scrum, that the Wallabies need to look at!
And like Arezzo, Italians look perfectly at ease in this gear, they have not changed at all in hundreds of years, there was only one weedy looking bloke, and he was on the catapult display. The armour was so well put together, it must have come from Gladiator the movie, but these bloke spoke italian.
I was so inspired l went out and bought Spartacus and Gladiator, and also came home with Young Frankenstein, the movie, just to bring a bit of balance to my tv viewing.
Without spoiling the surprise too much, a great deal of my painting has to do with this gladiator/ roman business, but l'll wait till they are well along before showing these pictures. Sadly for me l have the physique of a flag thrower in Arezzo, rather than a Roman centurion.
The boys have started with their tennis lessons, as well as learning some more Italian words, in particular, base line, serve, collect the balls, volley, the scores, racket and of course capisci!
Our friend Elisabeth had her bike stolen, they did not break the lock (titanium) but they actually lifted it up and over the 8 foot pole it was attached to, l wonder what people may have thought when they saw that happening, and having to carry it off to an angle grinder. It had a baby seat on the back, which l thought may have been in the thieving code of conduct a not to steal rule, obviously not!

martedì 20 settembre 2011

What's been happening lately!

Thought it worth mentioning what has happened in the last few weeks, the Arezzo situation had forced me to go deep deep uncover.
Firstly as l quickly mentioned in the Arezzo report, Nine Leigh visited us from London. Sadly Neigh was getting kicked out of the country, as the customs women said she had travelled too often, even though her visa still had 5 months. Obviously the women had been in the glass box too long, and the instruments and computer radiation had hampered her mind. We are allowing people too illegally enter countries, but they decide to penalize you for traveling too much, go figure. Anyway Nine kindly came via Bologna on her way back to Melbourne, and for her kindness we put her in the back of the car to Arezzo to have Ewan vomit next to her.
Next came Sally Nance and the girls Ava and Claudia, on their world wind tour of Italy, Paris, Hong Kong and England ( not necessarily in that order) They were here for a couple of days and as all our guests noticed was the beauty of Bologna, and the usual request for Spaghetti Bolognese came, but it is different here, they don't use spaghetti and its called ragu, and it tastes better. Sallys italian is brilliant and it was wonderful having them here, as the boys enjoyed having some other kids from Australia to play with.
Now we have Luisa Moscato, who arrived late last night, Jayne went to the train station to pick her up at 4.30pm, but the train was delayed an hour, so she waited, they there was no information about the train on the board, after inquiring with the highly helpful railway staff ( l am of course being very sarcastic ) they told her it had arrived, it of course had not, but they didn't really care as it had come from Munich, and was not their problem. Jayne then came home thinking, Luisa will ring us and she had our address. Her husband then emailed to make sure she had arrived, l emailed back and said no, after a few emails back and forth about what to do, panic started to occur. It was getting dark, and we really did not know if she had caught the train, or the wrong train or been kidnapped by aliens. Jayne went back to the station, and this time found an office that was more helpful and said there was a train arriving soon from Munich via Verona, maybe she is on that one. She was, her train she originally caught was held up in a snow blizzard, and forced to catch a bus, then the bus was held up by an avalanche, finally back on another train and into Bologna 4 hours late, on a 7 hour trip. The question of why she did not have a mobile phone was brought up, apparently we have to ask her husband, Scott who did not think it necessary!
Now some news on the home front, Hunter has taken up to shaving! He came out of the shower much to my surprise with a blood soaked mouth, completely unaware that it had happened when he decided to use Jaynes shaver in the shower, l said what the hell have you done, he said what?, i mentioned the blood, and he calmly said ohhh! He now has two scabs above his lip.
Finally the weather has cooled down, and this makes it much more enjoyable, as l was sweating a bit too much, having to drink litres a day just to replenish.
I have my new bike finally, a six speed white one without the horizontal bar, l wont say a ladies bike as many men of high distinction or manly appearance ride them, and l am told it is the new look all over Europe. I ride it with a very straight back, and my neck scarf, occasionally whistling and saying bonjour, as l feel more french on a bike, this is not helping my Italian though.
I notice that all Italians in Bologna at least, don't seem to care if they are in your way as you walk along, they are all oblivious of anyone else but themselves, l don't think it is rudeness. Young boys don't move for an old lady and men just plow along at prams. but no one seems to care, except me, as it pisses me off. Now l think of it, the amount of young children with broken arms, and in-fact elderly people is due to bumping into people as they walk along.
The other thing someone mentioned to me awhile ago is that Italians would never not pay for their expresso caffe ( you pay when you are leaving, and it costs 1 euro) but you would never leave your bike unlocked for a second. It is the two sided Italian society. Like Italians are known as hot heads and pick a fight over anything, but put them in a army uniform and they disappear. They drive like mad around the little streets, but have a 3 hour lunch.
We finally have a car space, about 5 minutes walk from the house, very smart indeed, you drive up, and someone comes out and parks it away for you, then when you want it, you ring ahead and they get it ready for you. But like all car parking it is expensive, l was able to get him down 130 euros/ month, and he even invited me to his house in the hills around Bologna to paint when l would like. So the friendliness of Bologna continues.
Now l must go and help Hunty join letters for writing homework, he is having problems with the letter f, and l now can hear the tv on and so Ewan has sneaked in and turned on Spongebob , and of course will tell me he has done everything!

domenica 18 settembre 2011

Arezzo Medieval Festival

A step back in time was experienced a few weeks ago in Arezzo. Normally l would have flinched at the idea of going to a medieval festival, the thought of Kryal castle comes to mind, or some nerds dressed in carbs from a fancy dress shop. But this was as close to the real thing as you can get. Jayne had found out about this months ago, and booked a room at the B&B we stayed at last time.
We travelled down by car with Nine Leigh who was staying with us, the usual car trip, l won't repeat it again, but l never take two hands of the wheel now! Woopsie, as Hunter says, l just remembered, it was actually quite an eventful trip, but maybe eventful that one wants to forget? Poor Ewan was sick, car sick on the way down, he blamed me for the peach l gave him for breakfast, which l cunningly told him, that was no peach, it was an nectraine , that did not seem to help as he vomited again, 30 minutes later. The first time we just got a beach towel to him in time, as we had no plastic bags, being so green, but Ewan for reasons we cannot say, decided not to use the towel to vomit in, he may well have been thinking it was his pool towel, and so vomited over his shorts and the seat. Nine was delighted! So we pulled over which is never easy on these autostrads, and changed his shorts and cleaned the seat, we then found a small plastic bag in the boot, just in case. Well luckily we did , as l said earlier he vomited again, perfect this time, right into the plastic bag, but the bag a slight hole in it, and when it comes to vomit in a plastic bag, a small hole or big hole is a hole. We finally arrived a hour late to pick up Elisabeth and Cesare who caught the train, and were staying at the same place. As luck may have it, at least luck for some, the small train we told Elisabeth to catch from the Arezzo station to were we where staying, only stopped at the stop if you asked it to. And it went straight past it, Elisabeth and Cesare, then went to the end of the line to catch the only train that works on that line back, this time being most clear to stop at their stop, so in the end we arrived before them!
Saturday afternoon we travelled into Arezzo and had a look around, catching up with one of Jaynes Italian friends, Gianni the antique dealer, who mentioned that all seat tickets for the festival were gone, but you could get tickets for standing on the day. Unfortunately something was lost in translation or in our crowd of people, but l shall go into that later. Jayne and Nine had a look around the antique market that happens every month, this time it was in the park, as the piazza was closed for the festival on sunday. Elisabeth and the kids and I went back to the B&B to have a swim, that night we had a lovely barbeque and looked forward to the festival.
We woke slowly, or some woke slowly, anyway, we set up a wonderful breakfast, Australian style, only to have the cleaners come in , seemingly surprised to see us still there and in particular having such a banquet at 10 am. So we gobbled a bit too fast, not the medically suggested 20 bites per mouthful, packed and headed off to Arezzo. The town was alive, found a park and walked into the central area. We walked around the streets, where every so often a marching parade of medieval people on horses, playing drums, soldiers, counts and countess's and town criers announcing the days proceedings (l think). The level of detail, and the quality of the leather boots was impressive, some of the wigs let them down, but the weird thing was that every person looked like the characters in any medieval painting. The Italian nose and face has not changed at all over 700 years. We then went of to get some lunch, as the event did not start till around 5pm, something which we wished we had known earlier. Well as usual l got bored sitting around so the boys and l headed off to look around, not a good idea, especially without a mobile, and not telling the others. Anyway we made our way to the piazza where l thought we could get a great pozzy to watch the event, which we found, but got kicked out of the piazza, as they were clearing it to allow all ticket holders only in. So l quickly went of to buy some tickets, found the place very quickly, thanks to my expert Italian, and bought 3 tickets for Hunter, Ewan and myself, thinking the others may have already bought some, hugh mistake.
Only minutes later we found the others, who had no tickets, l quickly pointed to the ticket office, now the expression l got a few minutes later from Jayne was not good. Even l could see she was not happy, so l quickly jumped to the best defence, attack and stupidity, not always in that order . Firstly saying , had you not got your tickets already, you know we needed them, big mistake; then, well l didn't know they would run out, l felt deep down a bit like Charlie and his golden ticket(s). So the expression from Jayne was now burning itself into my brain, so l offered my ticket to her, but the damage was down, so to keep it short, the boys and l went to the festival in the piazza and had the time of our life. An experience you should never miss, luckily l took photos for the others, and it was on television, so they could watch it in a bar.
Well it has taken the last few weeks for that event to slowly retreat from between us, and l feel safe to write it down now.
The festival is in two forms, firstly the street parades and marching up to the duomo to be blessed by the local priests, then the stage event with horses and army, which is about 400 people move down towards the piazza. In the piazza is seating for about 1000 people, and standing for about another 700. The dressed up group move in to the piazza and take corners, as there are four teams, identified by the colour of their clothing. We are treated to some impressive flag throwing, acrobatics and marching. Then the horses and horseman parade along a long dirt track set up diagonally across the piazza, entering and leaving from side streets. These horseman are jousters, two to a team. Now this is when, hey dad a bloke is selling some jousting sticks! whats he want for them? $200! dreamin! comes to mind. Anyway, you would easily get $200 for jousting sticks in Arezzo this weekend.
Now the crowd are like an AFL grand final, but there are four teams. The arch rivalry is incredible, each section of the crowd chanting at each other, people hanging from windows yelling out and waving flags, there was a flare let off near us, it was full on. Hunter and Ewan worked their way to the front rail and l sweated away amongst the screaming crowd, then the announcement that the first rider was about to charge, the crowd go silent. His job is to hit a man made from metal and wood, that spins round when you hit the white square on one of his arms, this square is broken into quarters with a central bulls eye. He chargers a full speed with jousting stick, its about 80 meters and hits the sign, a hugh roar goes up, and then silence a minute later as we wait for the judges to announce the score. When he hits the target it is quickly taken away and covered so know one can see the score, but the judges, just to add to the emotion. ( A seasoned follower near me had his SLR with telo lense, and captured brilliantly each hit, giving us near by an early idea of the score) Each quarter is given a score, 1,2,3,4 and 5 for a bulls eye, the first rider gets a 5!, and there is such a cry of joy and pain, yells of foul and faces of silence. I saw a man dressed in perfect garb of medieval style of 70 years of age, punch the air with excitement and then walk quickly in wild circles in a a dazed sense, as if he was the coach, the siren had gone, and there was a rookie with the ball, 60 meters out on the boundary, they are 5 points behind, and he cant do a thing.
Well each rider came out, scores of 2, 3, 4 but not another 5. The two riders scores are added and the winner is the one obviously with the highest score, there was no draw this year, but l presume they have a joust off.
From the actions of the crowd, l presumed there would be a fight, but no, all seems to calm immediately and they all walk off home, which in some cases is odd, as we saw three blokes in one car near us, all dressed in medieval clothing, with those terrific leather boots.
The only problem we had in the standing crowd was the local police, who are a bit of a joke, who stood around the the perimeter of the jousting area, blocking most of our view, unlike our police at the AFL grand final who sit. Plus next time l will bring a wide hat, as the sun was a killer, or better still get seating tickets, or for some just tickets!
The only good thing about Jayne not wanting to speak to me that day, was the drive home l was not told what l was doing wrong , well not often.
So if you are coming to Italy around the end of August you must go to Arezzo and see the jousting grand final. And never ever be so silly as not to get tickets for everyone. The good news is we are going back next year, l am hoping to get a part in the parade, just to wear those boots, and lets be honest l have the legs to wear stockings.